Post: #51

I am so lost when it comes to this!!!

Here is how I conceptualize the options:

1) Go cheap (i.e. suit or jacket from Zara, H&M, ESPRIT and then get some alterations at a tailor)

2) Middle of the road

* Hop into a more upscale store and buy a suit still off the shelf (perhaps more material, details, and a fancier design than option 1)

* Buy a designer suit (think Boss, CK, RL, etc...). Not a fan of this. I think their fits are absolute trash and they are over priced.

3) Online Made-to-Measure (general consensus is this is one of the worst options)

4) Get a complete custom fit suit/blazer from a reputable tailor that will run you $1,000+

It seems like there is no middle road guys... can someone share their expertise?

Post: #52

Quote:* Hop into a more upscale store and buy a suit still off the shelf (perhaps more material, details, and a fancier design than option 1)

* Buy a designer suit (think Boss, CK, RL, etc...). Not a fan of this. I think their fits are absolute trash and they are over priced.

This is better than

Quote:3) Online Made-to-Measure (general consensus is this is one of the worst options)

Boss and RL make some good suits, but they are also not cheap. CK? Never seen one that made me want one.

Any good high end mens retailer will have suits from good fashion labels, on a rack and ready to be tailored. Unless you have serious money or a weird shaped body, off the rack is fine. Most mens shops have free tailoring for life as well.

A place where I shop, a Tom Ford will cost $5000, fit me well off the rack, and with the tailoring will fit like a glove. Bespoke will be twice that number for a slightly better fit. Chances are you will be the only one that will notice the difference in fit. And bespoke gives you the advantage of adding details that will set your suit apart. For example I like pick stitching, pen pocket and condom pocket (most suits have these already though) and surgical sleeves. I also like a popping lining and collar felt. Without going online made to measure or bespoke, you are usually searching for suits from labels like Ted Baker and Etro to get these details.

But having said all this, I dont own a high end custom suit (yet). One day, but those are deep waters that should be tackled with experience.

Post: #53

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Post: #54

(04-17-2013 09:13 AM)Lothario Wrote:  Like your Plaid Blazer TexasMade, They all fit nice, Not digging the White Blazer, Is it Linen, also where and who is making them for you ?

Yeah. I noticed the sleeve when I wore the white one. I hope its looks better pressed. I got a contact out here. I would recommend them to all members. PM me and I'll send you their info

We need a thread for strictly tailors contact info. If I hit South Korea or China, I would hit up spots other members have been to.

Post: #55

(04-17-2013 03:20 PM)gandt Wrote:  I am so lost when it comes to this!!!

Here is how I conceptualize the options:

1) Go cheap (i.e. suit or jacket from Zara, H&M, ESPRIT and then get some alterations at a tailor)

2) Middle of the road

* Hop into a more upscale store and buy a suit still off the shelf (perhaps more material, details, and a fancier design than option 1)

* Buy a designer suit (think Boss, CK, RL, etc...). Not a fan of this. I think their fits are absolute trash and they are over priced.

3) Online Made-to-Measure (general consensus is this is one of the worst options)

4) Get a complete custom fit suit/blazer from a reputable tailor that will run you $1,000+

It seems like there is no middle road guys... can someone share their expertise?

Here is a $2500 solution. Fly buddy pass to Thailand, $1100. Stay in a hostel for four days, $50 with transportation. Buy five custom suits, about $200 a piece so $1000. You still have $450 for for other shit.

Problem solved. If you live on the west coast and can score a free buddy pass, you could probably just pay $700 in taxes. Buy three suits for $600 and dont drop any cash in the city you can pull this off for 1500.

If you are serious about suits and want to go custom as cheap as possible, you would consider a trip. I think South Korea is just as cheap for buying suits and the flight would be cheaper. I am not sure though. I know alot soldiers who have gone custom have bought their suits in Korea.

Post: #56

Is it better to get a tailored suit made from someone in hong kong/china or is it better to get a Canali suit that hasnt been measured to my exact build???

G and WestIndianArchie I'm looking at you two

Post: #57

(01-01-2014 12:32 PM)chyamor Wrote:  Is it better to get a tailored suit made from someone in hong kong/china or is it better to get a Canali suit that hasnt been measured to my exact build???

G and WestIndianArchie I'm looking at you two

Though I am neither of the people that you are referring to, I have gone down both routes.

My question is about your financial resources, location and timing.

In HK you can get super high end suits made that will make Canali the inferior product. But are you based there? This would require several fittings. Some of these companies will ship your suit to you, but how much of a hurry are you in?

Most people don't know the difference. Only thing they will pick up right away is the fit. I have some custom made stuff that doesn't fit anymore, tailoring them will add up and I have decided to look into new suits and save the old ones should I stop working out and gain weight/lose muscle.

What is your build? If it is unusual an off the rack might require too much alteration to make it fit.

A great resource is styleforum.net. Or ask andy about clothes.

Post: #58

(04-17-2013 04:16 PM)Laner Wrote:  A place where I shop, a Tom Ford will cost $5000, fit me well off the rack, and with the tailoring will fit like a glove. Bespoke will be twice that number for a slightly better fit. Chances are you will be the only one that will notice the difference in fit.
But having said all this, I dont own a high end custom suit (yet). One day, but those are deep waters that should be tackled with experience.

Custom suits (US prices) really go along with expensive watches and handmade shoes. Its more of a status thing to brag with others in your pay scale. 99% of the populous won't know the difference. A watchmaker will comment on those timepieces, a cobbler the shoes, a tailor the threads. The rest will come up and say "nice suit". The regular eye isn't trained to see the +/- 3% difference. Just like this:


   

You can put two Marines side by side for inspection, one squared away, the other a total shitbag that will fail inspection, but the average person will see them the same. No different than custom vs good off the rack suits.



I've slipped into a Boss blazer that I GUARANTEE wouldn't fit any less better than a ground up custom (US prices), except perhaps fabric selection. And that blazer was $500.

I didn't give a shit on my last trip to the ME, but now I regret not buying a shitload of the finest fabrics, and use to barter here, just to see if it works.


http://whosyourtailor.wordpress.com/2010...suit-cost/

Post: #59

Hey Samsamsam,

Chicago, no rush. As far as build I measured my 1 and only semi cheap custom suit and its a 42R with avg build. One thing I dont like about the custom is I went cheap on material since it was my first one and wasnt sure if I could keep it clean. Now that I have worn it several times I am confident I can maintain it.

Post: #60

Chyamor, it is hard to get a custom suit without getting fitted. Not trying to make a joke or anything. Since you mentioned you are of average build I would just find an off the rack and get it fitted right. I wouldn't trust the tailor at the store you bought from. I'd find a good tailor and take it there. Just be clear on the look you want. Some people want to show a lot of cuff some don't. You can ask your tailor for input but it is your suit at the end of the day.

If your custom suit fits perfect and the tailor still has your measurements maybe you could ask him to send you swatches. Problem is even if he has your measurements I am not sure if they kept your adjustments that were made after the suit was initially made. Every time I have had a suit made there weren't little adjustments during a fitting.

Once again try Styleforum.net and get blown away by how serious those guys are about clothes. I learned a lot there.

Post: #61

Has anyone made suits with Rajas over the internet and not in person?

I have been in contact with them, they're sending multiple fabric samples, then I'll go to a tailor here and pay him to measure me perfectly, and send the measurement to them over in Thailand. I would definitely consider the trip, however I'm tied down with business currently and will be for a while.

I was just thinking that they can send the finished products and then if all else fails, I could get them tailored here. But I'm looking to buy 3-4 three piece suits, a couple blazers, and potentially some shirts, and there's no way I'll get the quality for the price these guys offer.

Post: #62

(01-01-2014 02:21 PM)Aliblahba Wrote:  Custom suits (US prices) really go along with expensive watches and handmade shoes. Its more of a status thing to brag with others in your pay scale. 99% of the populous won't know the difference. A watchmaker will comment on those timepieces, a cobbler the shoes, a tailor the threads. The rest will come up and say "nice suit". The regular eye isn't trained to see the +/- 3% difference. Just like this:


You can put two Marines side by side for inspection, one squared away, the other a total shitbag that will fail inspection, but the average person will see them the same. No different than custom vs good off the rack suits.

Definitely agree with this. For picking up regular chicks, they can't tell the difference. As long as the suit fits right, she can't tell if it's expensive or not. In environments where there are a lot of guys throwing around money, the girls learn how to tell the difference.

Post: #63

Keep in mind that the suits you get are marked up by a factor of 5x over what they pay for them. You can do MUCH better with the right supplier connections.

Source: I know someone who has sold clothes to some of the richest folks on the planet. Think executive suite types and Hedge Fund managers.

Post: #64

if anyone is looking for an online custom suit store I would recommend Suitable (suitablenyc.com). Their suits run around 400 bucks for a full custom suit, you can either go into their nyc studio and get measured or submit measurements online. The best part is they have an alteration credit at any tailor so if you need any minor tweaks it'll be free of charge.

I got a navy blue tartan suit from them and its one of my most complimented suits that only need minor tailoring. It's good quality stuff and its accessible without having to fly anywhere.

Post: #65

I've always thought that 'made to measure' provides a pretty good balance between something off the rack vs the a bespoke option.

IMO as others have attested to a reasonable off the rack suit that is tailored to you can look as good as its more expensive rivals. The question is of course up to you with regards to timings and total cost, a bespoke suit should really take at least 3 fittings maybe more - so bear that in mind.

Post: #66

I've run into one problem with tailored suits, and I'm interested to hear if other guys have had the same issue.
Namely: hitting the gym.

I've already completely blown out of my old tailored suit such that I'm bursting out of the trousers and can't close the jacket. The whole purpose of a tailored suit is to 'fit well', i.e. snugly so it looks good (and they really do look good). That necessitates a very small margin in body size change. When you're bulking and hitting the gym, you're going to be blowing out of a well-fitted tailored suit every few months (same likely applies to guys losing weight). Only ballers can afford that unless they live in Bangkok or somewhere else with cheap tailors. I guess for the foreseeable future I'm just going to have to tolerate shitty fitting cheap suits.

Post: #67

I always think online tailors are not real tailors.

Post: #68

I just got one made here in Switzerland. Really very happy with it.

The tailor travels and works between London, Zurich and Geneva. Pm me if you want his info.

Post: #69

(10-18-2015 05:39 PM)TheNookieMonster Wrote:  

(01-01-2014 02:21 PM)Aliblahba Wrote:  Custom suits (US prices) really go along with expensive watches and handmade shoes. Its more of a status thing to brag with others in your pay scale. 99% of the populous won't know the difference. A watchmaker will comment on those timepieces, a cobbler the shoes, a tailor the threads. The rest will come up and say "nice suit". The regular eye isn't trained to see the +/- 3% difference. Just like this:


You can put two Marines side by side for inspection, one squared away, the other a total shitbag that will fail inspection, but the average person will see them the same. No different than custom vs good off the rack suits.

Definitely agree with this. For picking up regular chicks, they can't tell the difference. As long as the suit fits right, she can't tell if it's expensive or not. In environments where there are a lot of guys throwing around money, the girls learn how to tell the difference.

The point about the suit is that YOU know. If you're only buying a suit to impress chicks then I'm not sure that's entirely the point.

Post: #70

If you're ever in China, get your suits there. Stellar quality (if you know where to look) and cheap af.