Post: #76

Send them over Alpha and I'll have a look. Was the pipe work changed under the sink? Send a pic of where the flexi hoses join the pipe under the sink.

Post: #77

I'm a HVAC technician and installer of commercial and residential units A/C units. I also have a general knowledge of electrical system and basic plumbing. My side gig is building out marijuana grow spots from small houses to 10,000 sq ft warehouses.

Feel free to msg me about anything related to my trade.

Post: #78

I'm currently driving a 2004 Ford Explorer and about a year ago, I was changing the oil and noticed large scratches and puncture marks along with rust building up on the driveshaft near the U joint underneath the car. I didn't think much of it and sprayed it with some wd40, but, eventually began to notice the rust getting worse and more marks. It got so bad that I resorted to covering the worst area with duct tape and I have been driving it like this the past two months. A few days ago I looked under my car and noticed it was so bad that it looks like it's going to snap very soon... If I wanted to attempt to replace this on my own, where can I find the cheapest parts for it? Also, I'm still a student so I might try holding off as long as possible. Should try to cover this with more duct tape or gorilla tape and continue driving or replace it now?

Post: #79

Ford explorers from that era are probably filling junkyards. I bet it's an easy find. Or look on Craigslist and see if anyone is just giving them away.

Aloha!

Post: #80

(11-14-2017 03:28 PM)Vasily Zaytsev Wrote:  I'm currently driving a 2004 Ford Explorer and about a year ago, I was changing the oil and noticed large scratches and puncture marks along with rust building up on the driveshaft near the U joint underneath the car. I didn't think much of it and sprayed it with some wd40, but, eventually began to notice the rust getting worse and more marks. It got so bad that I resorted to covering the worst area with duct tape and I have been driving it like this the past two months. A few days ago I looked under my car and noticed it was so bad that it looks like it's going to snap very soon... If I wanted to attempt to replace this on my own, where can I find the cheapest parts for it? Also, I'm still a student so I might try holding off as long as possible. Should try to cover this with more duct tape or gorilla tape and continue driving or replace it now?

I would be concerned about what is causing the rust. High carbon steel generally only gets surface rust, so its strange that the drive shaft is being corroded.

Could it be brake fluid that is hitting the shaft for some reason? That stuff is highly corrosive.

Post: #81

I would also be concerned about what is causing the "large scratches and puncture marks"

Is the driveshaft hitting something? Unless you've been regularly crawling it over huge rocks, this is unusual.

Post: #82

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm clueless as to how this happened. I have gone to the mountains quite a bit with it, but, I can't think of any specific times where I felt anything hit it. It makes me wonder though if I somehow broke a line or something and damaged the driveshaft as well. I just talked to a buddy of mine and he's going to try to look at it sometime this week...

Post: #83

I just put a new driveshaft in my ranger.. you'll need a 12 point 12mm socket to get the 4 bolts off then just slide a new one in and bolt it down. Pretty straight forward. Just be careful that the donor driveshaft isn't dented from the vehicle being picked up by a forklift. I went to a u pull it junkyard and they were all dented.

On another note, I'm a carpenter with a focus on exterior finishing if anyone wants advice on something related. Siding, softit, fascia or otherwise.

Post: #84

(11-14-2017 03:28 PM)Vasily Zaytsev Wrote:  I'm currently driving a 2004 Ford Explorer and about a year ago, I was changing the oil and noticed large scratches and puncture marks along with rust building up on the driveshaft near the U joint underneath the car. I didn't think much of it and sprayed it with some wd40, but, eventually began to notice the rust getting worse and more marks. It got so bad that I resorted to covering the worst area with duct tape and I have been driving it like this the past two months. A few days ago I looked under my car and noticed it was so bad that it looks like it's going to snap very soon... If I wanted to attempt to replace this on my own, where can I find the cheapest parts for it? Also, I'm still a student so I might try holding off as long as possible. Should try to cover this with more duct tape or gorilla tape and continue driving or replace it now?

Sounds odd. When you say puncture mark, you mean it's a hollow shaft and you can poke a pen nib or something through the hole?

Duct tape or gorrilla tape is totally pointless. If it's rusting due to water/salt ingress into the shaft you're just holding it in there. And nobody can see it anyway.

Post: #85

(11-16-2017 08:01 PM)rdvirus Wrote:  On another note, I'm a carpenter with a focus on exterior finishing if anyone wants advice on something related. Siding, softit, fascia or otherwise.

When making a basic braced wooden door or garden gate, what's the best way to mark the diagonals on the braces to get them as good a fit as possible?

I'm doing metal gates tomorrow, slight misalignment is not a problem with a MIG

Post: #86

Just thought you guys might like the craftsmanship.

Post: #87

Damn that's impressive.

I'm in the wrong business. If I were to do that it would be made out of CNC billet, carbon fiber and stainless steel. Not very homely.

Post: #88

(12-03-2017 03:45 PM)Sooth Wrote:  Damn that's impressive.

I'm in the wrong business. If I were to do that it would be made out of CNC billet, carbon fiber and stainless steel. Not very homely.

Yeah, but homely or not, using what you got and doing what you are good at can end up somewhere impressive:

Post: #89

Got an update for my electrical problem.

Few days ago as i was gonna close the hood after another jump start i saw that my belt tensioner was wagging back and forth.every time it did my van would sound like it was gonna slow down.ordering that part and a new belt soon.if it doesnt work well i can always grab some beer,get drunk and look at it .

Post: #90

I'm restoring a couple of vintage sledges and the metal runners are really rusty, so is most of the metal work that braces the sledge laterally.

I can't get the runners off because a couple of the screw heads are dead but I've been able to get the braces off.

Question is, what is a quick and easy way to get 40 years of rust off the metal? I heard you could leave it to soak in Coca Cola for a night?

Basically, I want a quicker way than endless sanding of metal.

Thanks!

Post: #91

(12-04-2017 08:46 AM)Ski pro Wrote:  I'm restoring a couple of vintage sledges and the metal runners are really rusty, so is most of the metal work that braces the sledge laterally.

I can't get the runners off because a couple of the screw heads are dead but I've been able to get the braces off.

Question is, what is a quick and easy way to get 40 years of rust off the metal? I heard you could leave it to soak in Coca Cola for a night?

Basically, I want a quicker way than endless sanding of metal.

Thanks!

Acid takes rust off. Try phosphoric acid. Soak the steel for a night then rub off the 'rust' or find a jelly that can be painted on there for a while. Make sure to use a rust prevention after or you will rust back up in no time.

Post: #92

(12-04-2017 08:46 AM)Ski pro Wrote:  I'm restoring a couple of vintage sledges and the metal runners are really rusty, so is most of the metal work that braces the sledge laterally.

I can't get the runners off because a couple of the screw heads are dead but I've been able to get the braces off.

Question is, what is a quick and easy way to get 40 years of rust off the metal? I heard you could leave it to soak in Coca Cola for a night?

Basically, I want a quicker way than endless sanding of metal.

Thanks!

Drill out the bad screws and replace and soak the works in muratic acid. It is cheap and available at any hardware store.

Post: #93

Looking around closely at my new pad.there isnt much hiding places so i figured id make some shelves above the door of the closets that look like the ceiling.

Gonna grab some scrap wood ,paint it white and screw em on up there.

Oh yeah i managed to break my bathroom window glass trying to open it (it was painted shut) before the idea of cutting the paint along the edges of the fram to break it free popped in my head. Would that be a pain in the ass fix?

Post: #94

Anybody ever been a set-up man for injection molding?

Im currently working at a plastics place and Im an operator.


How hard is it to be a Set-Up man?

Post: #95

(12-04-2017 10:57 PM)IvanDrago Wrote:  

(12-04-2017 08:46 AM)Ski pro Wrote:  I'm restoring a couple of vintage sledges and the metal runners are really rusty, so is most of the metal work that braces the sledge laterally.

I can't get the runners off because a couple of the screw heads are dead but I've been able to get the braces off.

Question is, what is a quick and easy way to get 40 years of rust off the metal? I heard you could leave it to soak in Coca Cola for a night?

Basically, I want a quicker way than endless sanding of metal.

Thanks!

Drill out the bad screws and replace and soak the works in muratic acid. It is cheap and available at any hardware store.

I agree about drilling out the old screws and replacing them. Its just a better restoration job.

I am unsure of muriatic acid. We used phosphoric at the fab shops and from what I hear muriatic just eats and damages the metal so it doesn't look good. But it is available at hardware stores which is a plus.

I still recommend phosphoric acid, especially the 'naval jelly' stuff. Perhaps its more for guys who are into machining or mechanics where they don't want to lose the tolerance.

Post: #96

(12-04-2017 11:37 PM)Laner Wrote:  I agree about drilling out the old screws and replacing them. Its just a better restoration job.

I am unsure of muriatic acid. We used phosphoric at the fab shops and from what I hear muriatic just eats and damages the metal so it doesn't look good. But it is available at hardware stores which is a plus.

I still recommend phosphoric acid, especially the 'naval jelly' stuff. Perhaps its more for guys who are into machining or mechanics where they don't want to lose the tolerance.

Ya, it is aggressive but nothing a lot of primer can't fill in I usually use it to clean out rust gas tanks on bikes and such.

Ski pro, you might also look in to a little hand held media blaster and compressor if you think you'd get some use out of something like that. Or you could just search for media blasting companies in your area. They should be able to cut something that size for a few bucks if they aren't busy.

Post: #97

Thanks all.

I saw a couple of videos that said vinegar might do a job also.

Regards drilling out the bad screws, it is just a case of taking a metal drill bit and drilling until it comes out or is there a special technique to this?

Post: #98

This is such a great idea for a thread. So glad you started it. I'm about to start some home improvements and a thread like this will be so friggin cool. Thanks for this....

Post: #99

(12-05-2017 10:06 AM)Ski pro Wrote:  Regards drilling out the bad screws, it is just a case of taking a metal drill bit and drilling until it comes out or is there a special technique to this?

Start with a small bit and drill a little pilot hole in the center of the head of the screw. Then grab a larger bit and drill through the head of the screw. Eventually the head will pop off of the shank. You can then remove the bracket and then use a vice grip to unthread the remainder of the screw if it isn't too rusted in. If the threads are rusted in you may need to drill that out as well, just don't use too big of a bit so you don't damage the threads on whatever it is screwed in to. I'm sure there are tons of videos on youtube, just search for "remove stripped screw" or something like that.

Post: #100

Thanks Ivan, Laner.

Managed to find some jelly so working on that now. Big storm just coming through the alps so it's too cold to be in the workshop at night now, but I'll let you know how it goes.