Post: #51

(09-15-2017 04:44 PM)ShotgunUppercuts Wrote:  Got a question for car wrenchers.

Im building a 76 nova (possibly a race car) im looking for a dana 60 rear end,what trucks could i find one in ?

Its in ford f250s. Dealt with one a bout a year ago.

Aloha!

Post: #52

Does a groundsman count as a tradesman?

If so, someone should ask Kona a lawn question.

Got your back, bro.

Post: #53

(09-15-2017 04:44 PM)ShotgunUppercuts Wrote:  Got a question for car wrenchers.

Im building a 76 nova (possibly a race car) im looking for a dana 60 rear end,what trucks could i find one in ?

I would do a Google search but lots of 1-ton vans, pickups, and SUV's from the big 3 during the late 80's and 90's used them. Lookup the MFG code for dana 60 differentials for each maker and hunt around the pick yard.

Post: #54

Good looking bro ^.

Post: #55

Got a specific question.

Anyone here know what is the compound used to darken steel? When I watch videos about sword making, crossguard and pommel are sometimes coated with watery compound that makes steel darken a little, giving it cool contrast against blade. Could anybody tell me more about this stuff?

Post: #56

(10-12-2017 09:57 AM)sterling_archer Wrote:  Got a specific question.

Anyone here know what is the compound used to darken steel? When I watch videos about sword making, crossguard and pommel are sometimes coated with watery compound that makes steel darken a little, giving it cool contrast against blade. Could anybody tell me more about this stuff?

I think you're looking for a blueing compound. Various 'cold blue' gels are available, but from my youth spent trying to restore air rifles results can be mixed. With a sword you could probably do it properly with a hot blue.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)

Post: #57

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvPTbOL99YM

Look at the beginning of video. Here guy applies some liquid but doesn't appear to use any source of heat.

Post: #58

(10-12-2017 09:57 AM)sterling_archer Wrote:  Got a specific question.

Anyone here know what is the compound used to darken steel? When I watch videos about sword making, crossguard and pommel are sometimes coated with watery compound that makes steel darken a little, giving it cool contrast against blade. Could anybody tell me more about this stuff?

Birchwood Casey had the best chemical compounds as far as trade works goes. I use the M-20 solution all the time, but its more for blackening mild steel.

They have a lot of different liquids. Sculpt Nuveau will sell them in smaller quantities too.

Post: #59

I recently had a bolt break off on an aluminum intake manifold. I eventually was able to drill the f*cker out, but it was incredibly difficult. I believe my drill set was not effective enough for the task.

I'd like to make an investment on drill bits that are both stupid strong, capable of lasting a long time, and fulfill the particular use case I mentioned above.

Any suggestions from you guys out there?

Post: #60

(10-27-2017 02:17 PM)The Beast1 Wrote:  I recently had a bolt break off on an aluminum intake manifold. I eventually was able to drill the f*cker out, but it was incredibly difficult. I believe my drill set was not effective enough for the task.

I'd like to make an investment on drill bits that are both stupid strong, capable of lasting a long time, and fulfill the particular use case I mentioned above.

Any suggestions from you guys out there?

HSS only. I have used them on stainless steel for almost 20 years. I have a 7/64 that I have sharpened right down to a nub but then they get transferred into the hole saw. Cobalt steel is probably better but for the price I only use HSS.

Practice sharpening bits, it will change your life.

Post: #61

To add to Laner's point

1. Decent HSS is what you need. Get it from a pro shop not a DIY store. That said, cobalt is useful for certain situations and a broken stud heat hardened by the engine would be one of them in my book. Avoid fancy coatings- it's marketing. They're gone the first time you sharpen it.

2. As he says, make sure it's properly ground. I'm leaning more towards a 135° point these days and so are a lot of pro brands.

If your bit wasn't blunt, it most likely wasn't cutting well due to having an incorrectly ground centre, meaning it needed serious pressure. Being realistic, if you're only using bits up to half inch, and occasionally, a DIY auto sharpener will probably be good enough. Bit sharpening correctly takes a lot of practice. Laner- I use a CBN wheel, and that changed my life. So true, cuts ice cold (well almost) and leaves an edge like a razor. Never needs dressing. Downside is an 8" will set you back around $200

3. As an alternative, for crappy jobs like the one you mentioned, consider some stub bits. Double ended, cheap (disposable), short (easily controllable). Sold mainly into the trade so quality is usually acceptable. I always have a dozen each of 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm. Great for holes less than an inch deep.

4. Beast, did you consider a stud extractor? There was a post a few pages back in this thread with a guy who had a motorcycle exhaust stud snap.

Post: #62

Yes I did, but this wasn't a stud. It was a screw and it broken inside of a hole with nothing to grab onto.

Some background, I tried to double up two helicoils and misaligned it somehow. When I was screwing in the bolt, I guess I must be really strong because I broke a brand new machinist allen screw into the hole.

I needed to drill out the old coils and retap the hole. Honestly it was a royal fuck up that highlighted my lack of skill and tools.

I also learned that doubling up the coil was unnecessary. Regardless, it's all repaired now and holding tight.

Post: #63

(10-30-2017 07:35 PM)The Beast1 Wrote:  Yes I did, but this wasn't a stud. It was a screw and it broken inside of a hole with nothing to grab onto.

Some background, I tried to double up two helicoils and misaligned it somehow. When I was screwing in the bolt, I guess I must be really strong because I broke a brand new machinist allen screw into the hole.

I needed to drill out the old coils and retap the hole. Honestly it was a royal fuck up that highlighted my lack of skill and tools.

I also learned that doubling up the coil was unnecessary. Regardless, it's all repaired now and holding tight.

Yeah sometimes 'easy out' extractors work great. Other times, not so much. They are useful to have around regardless, especially when working with steel on aluminum. For some reason, the oxidation on aluminum gets 'sticky' when used around steel.

Post: #64

(10-30-2017 07:35 PM)The Beast1 Wrote:  Yes I did, but this wasn't a stud. It was a screw and it broken inside of a hole with nothing to grab onto.

Some background, I tried to double up two helicoils and misaligned it somehow. When I was screwing in the bolt, I guess I must be really strong because I broke a brand new machinist allen screw into the hole.

I needed to drill out the old coils and retap the hole. Honestly it was a royal fuck up that highlighted my lack of skill and tools.

I also learned that doubling up the coil was unnecessary. Regardless, it's all repaired now and holding tight.

That'd be why you were struggling! Hardened spring wire of the helicoil will test any drill bit- it will be forever chipping rather than getting into it's stride.


Doubling up helicoils will most times leave a slight gap in the thread between the two making it very unlikely the bolt will thread properly all the way unless they are both 'just right'. Given that the helicoil only seats properly when you torque the bolt up I'd say avoid doubling helicoils in all instances. If you need extra torque remember that a hardened helicoil properly set is usually much stronger than the host material, and if that's not enough then consider a fine thread helicoil.

Post: #65

I have a plumbing question.

A little over a week ago I had my Delta kitchen sink replaced due to water constantly leaking from the faucet (I assume it would have been a simple fix as removing the handle and replacing the washers but the landlord decided to have the entire sink replaced). It was replaced with an Everflow Item#17382G. Now everything seemed fine for the first day or two but then I started to notice everytime I turned on the faucet the side sprayer would thump. I found this strange, but okay no big deal. A day after that I started to notice that little drops or streaks of water would come from the bottom of the sprayer connection. Yesterday I noticed that on top of the previously mentioned issues water was beginning to drip from the sprayer connection side under the sink every time I turned on the faucet. To add insult to injury, while testing things out a tiny stream of water started to shoot out of the BACK of the sprayer head. When I took a closer look I noticed a crack in the back of the sprayer head. Obviously I cant use the sink in this condition and Youtube is pretty useless when it comes to plumbing specifics. Any of you guys have any idea what could be the definite cause(s) of this?

Post: #66

Plan on changing my altenator and battery tomorrow but i figured id still ask before i throw money away.the battery level changes frequently when the car is running .lights on the inside and headlights flicker/dim .when i get on the gas it goes up to 14 then drops back down low. Anyone have an idea why?

Got the altenator changed two weeks back and im having the same problem now.

Would a drive belt be a cause also?

Post: #67

(11-01-2017 03:22 PM)ShotgunUppercuts Wrote:  Plan on changing my altenator and battery tomorrow but i figured id still ask before i throw money away.the battery level changes frequently when the car is running .lights on the inside and headlights flicker/dim .when i get on the gas it goes up to 14 then drops back down low. Anyone have an idea why?

Got the altenator changed two weeks back and im having the same problem now.

Would a drive belt be a cause also?

Good job you asked...

What are you using to measure the level? Has the car got a voltage meter built in? Your alternator should deliver 13.5v to 14v in order to charge the battery, so this in itself is normal. What do you mean, drops down low?

The lights flickering sounds to me more like a loose connection somewhere. Does it happen when the ignition is on but the engine off? Or only when the engine is running?

There's no need to change a battery unless it's not holding it's charge, or is unable to deliver enough cold cranking amps to reliably start the engine. And there's no need to change an alternator unless it's not charging the battery. I'm surprised the shop changed the alternator based upon the symptoms you are describing here.

The drive belt should be fine- it should have been tensioned when the new alternator was fitted. If the drive belt snapped all that would happen is that the battery would no longer be getting charged and would go flat with use.

Post: #68

I have a voltmeter i can put on the battery to check the level

By dropping down low the battery gauge would constantly go from 14 down to 9 and lower then back up to 14.

Post: #69

9 is very low- if really was 9 it’s unlikely the engine would start. What does it read when the engine is off? Should be 12.7 to 13.8 ish depending upon stage of charge.

Combined with the lights dimming, if it really is reading 9 this suggests a heavy load is being applied to the battery. You’ll see a voltmeter dip from 12 to 9v and lights dim when applying glow plugs in a diesel for instance. So it sounds likely you have either a short somewhere (which should in theory blow a fuse) or there is a heavy load switching with the vibrations from the engine. For instance, a worn ignition barrel allowing glow plugs to turn on and off. What motor its it? Is it diesel?

You’re going to need to learn to use a multimeter by the sounds of it.

Post: #70

Its a 4.3 vortec.i have a multimeter also

When the engine is off the gauge reads way below 9 . Somehow im able to start it (no more than 3 times) with a low battery.i can throw it on a charger for hours till it says its "charged" as soon as i throw it in drive it starts flippn the fuck out.

Post: #71

I can check the fuses tomorrow also.

Post: #72

(11-01-2017 06:46 PM)ShotgunUppercuts Wrote:  Its a 4.3 vortec.i have a multimeter also

When the engine is off the gauge reads way below 9 . Somehow im able to start it (no more than 3 times) with a low battery.i can throw it on a charger for hours till it says its "charged" as soon as i throw it in drive it starts flippn the fuck out.

If you can only start it three times with the battery (and it reads 9v!) then change that battery before you do anything else.

This is at the limits of my electrical knowledge, but there may well be a loose connection in the battery itself meaning that sometimes it's running with all cells connected and sometimes with a cell out of the circuit (9v). This could cause the dimming lights.

I'm amazed it starts at 9v but I have seen it before with a van that was sat for months. I almost bet my mate a tenner it wouldn't, and I'm glad I didn't now.

For future reference, if you have charging issues the first thing to do is to test the battery with the engine off after the car has been sat for a day (should be 12.7-13.2v, higher if it has been charged in the past hours), and test it with the engine running (should read 13.5-14.2v as the alternator supplies it with current) Then you'd know where to start playing parts bingo

Use a digital multimeter for all measurements, analogue volt meters can be somewhat inaccurate.

Post: #73

(11-01-2017 02:49 PM)Alpha Hunter Zero Wrote:  I have a plumbing question.

A little over a week ago I had my Delta kitchen sink replaced due to water constantly leaking from the faucet (I assume it would have been a simple fix as removing the handle and replacing the washers but the landlord decided to have the entire sink replaced). It was replaced with an Everflow Item#17382G. Now everything seemed fine for the first day or two but then I started to notice everytime I turned on the faucet the side sprayer would thump. I found this strange, but okay no big deal. A day after that I started to notice that little drops or streaks of water would come from the bottom of the sprayer connection. Yesterday I noticed that on top of the previously mentioned issues water was beginning to drip from the sprayer connection side under the sink every time I turned on the faucet. To add insult to injury, while testing things out a tiny stream of water started to shoot out of the BACK of the sprayer head. When I took a closer look I noticed a crack in the back of the sprayer head. Obviously I cant use the sink in this condition and Youtube is pretty useless when it comes to plumbing specifics. Any of you guys have any idea what could be the definite cause(s) of this?

Sounds like the internal mixing cartridge is broken, causing a 'water hammer' effect to the sprayer side. Leaks and cracks would also point to this.

Probably a cheap imported fitting, purchased from thr Internet because it looked just like those expensive one's, but cost 75% less. Impossible to get parts for, so basically needs replacing when they fail. False economy.

Let your landlord know TODAY and ask if they can fix it ASAP as you are unable to use it in this condition. Don't let on that a $50-$100 repair could have been done on the originals, it won't be appreciated!

Also be aware of the positions of any isolating valves feeding the fitting. If the leaks become worse causing damage under the sink I would isolate the supply.

Good luck.

Post: #74

(11-02-2017 04:00 AM)roberto Wrote:  

(11-01-2017 06:46 PM)ShotgunUppercuts Wrote:  Its a 4.3 vortec.i have a multimeter also

When the engine is off the gauge reads way below 9 . Somehow im able to start it (no more than 3 times) with a low battery.i can throw it on a charger for hours till it says its "charged" as soon as i throw it in drive it starts flippn the fuck out.

If you can only start it three times with the battery (and it reads 9v!) then change that battery before you do anything else.

This is at the limits of my electrical knowledge, but there may well be a loose connection in the battery itself meaning that sometimes it's running with all cells connected and sometimes with a cell out of the circuit (9v). This could cause the dimming lights.

I'm amazed it starts at 9v but I have seen it before with a van that was sat for months. I almost bet my mate a tenner it wouldn't, and I'm glad I didn't now.

For future reference, if you have charging issues the first thing to do is to test the battery with the engine off after the car has been sat for a day (should be 12.7-13.2v, higher if it has been charged in the past hours), and test it with the engine running (should read 13.5-14.2v as the alternator supplies it with current) Then you'd know where to start playing parts bingo

Use a digital multimeter for all measurements, analogue volt meters can be somewhat inaccurate.

roberto & Renton round table discussion on batteries....... Hey roberto.

I agree with roberto, think it looks like battery has cell problem, sulfation or something, either way battery is goosed. Can't you borrow a known good one from somewhere Shotgun? Local scrapyard?



Quick guide to Battery testing:
https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how-to...s-bad.html

Quote:Here are some ways to test your battery at home, and determine if it's bad
1) Inspect the Battery

Sometimes you can tell if your battery is bad by simply taking a good look. There are a few things to inspect, such as: a broken terminal, bulge or bump in the case, crack or rupture of the plastic, excessive leaking, and discoloration. Broken or loose terminals are dangerous, and can cause a short circuit. If a short did occur, there would be some indication of burning or melting. When a battery short circuits, all of the power is unloaded in an instant. That produces a lot of heat, and sometimes even causes the battery to explode (no joke). If the battery is still intact, but there is a bulge in the case, this is usually a result of being overcharged. Others signs such as physical openings in the case are often caused by mishandling. Cracks, splits, and holes will not cause a battery to stop working, but for safety reasons the battery should be labeled unsafe to use.

With wet-cel (flooded) batteries, water levels have to be maintained. If they are low, usually re-filling them with distilled water will help. But if the battery has been dry for a long time, it can cause a problem. When the plates in the cells are exposed to oxygen, it rapidly causes sulfation to build up. Sulfation is the number 1 cause of early battery failure. Plus, charging a dry battery will burn it up. If your battery has plenty of fluid in the cells, but the color is dark, or brownish, this is also an indication of a bad battery. Even if one cell is brown, it is rendered useless and therefore the entire battery is, too. Time to replace!

2) Take a Voltage Reading

The voltage of a battery is a good way to determine the state of charge. Here's a handy table with the breakdown:

State of Charge Voltage
100%                12.7 - 13.2
75%                       12.4
50%.                       12.2
25%                       12.0
Discharged               0 - 11.9

If your battery is reading 0 volts, chances are the battery experienced a short circuit. If the battery cannot reach higher than 10.5 volts when being charged, then the battery has a dead cell. If the battery is fully charged (according to the battery charger) but the voltage is 12.4 or less, the battery is sulfated. Sulfation is the natural byproduct when the battery discharges. Naturally, re-charging the battery will reverse the sulfation crystals and turn it back into electrolyte, ready to produce power again. But if a battery sat, uncharged, severely discharged, and/or drained for extended periods of time, the sulfation will increase in size and harden onto the plates. This covers the surface area of the plates, removing the chemicals needed to produce power. Sulfation decreases the potential to reach a full charge, and it self-discharges the battery quicker than normal. Charging a sulfated battery is like trying to wash your hands while wearing gloves. At this point, charging alone will not restore the battery to a healthy condition. The majority of replacement battery purchases occur when the original battery has reached this point.

3) Load Test the Battery

Your local automotive shop is more than able to load test your battery for you. But it's quite easy to do at home. All you need is a digital voltmeter. For any load test to be accurate, the battery must be fully charged. Let's use a motorcycle battery for an example. Remove the seat and expose the battery in your bike so that you have access to the terminals. Do not disconnect the battery because you will attempt to start the bike. Hold the prongs of your voltmeter to the correct terminals on the battery. Now push the starter button and watch what the voltage drops to. It doesn't matter if the bike starts or not, what you're looking for is a voltage reading.

A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup. Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing.

Could be the bolded.

Post: #75

(11-02-2017 04:25 AM)Renton1875 Wrote:  

(11-01-2017 02:49 PM)Alpha Hunter Zero Wrote:  I have a plumbing question.

A little over a week ago I had my Delta kitchen sink replaced due to water constantly leaking from the faucet (I assume it would have been a simple fix as removing the handle and replacing the washers but the landlord decided to have the entire sink replaced). It was replaced with an Everflow Item#17382G. Now everything seemed fine for the first day or two but then I started to notice everytime I turned on the faucet the side sprayer would thump. I found this strange, but okay no big deal. A day after that I started to notice that little drops or streaks of water would come from the bottom of the sprayer connection. Yesterday I noticed that on top of the previously mentioned issues water was beginning to drip from the sprayer connection side under the sink every time I turned on the faucet. To add insult to injury, while testing things out a tiny stream of water started to shoot out of the BACK of the sprayer head. When I took a closer look I noticed a crack in the back of the sprayer head. Obviously I cant use the sink in this condition and Youtube is pretty useless when it comes to plumbing specifics. Any of you guys have any idea what could be the definite cause(s) of this?

Sounds like the internal mixing cartridge is broken, causing a 'water hammer' effect to the sprayer side. Leaks and cracks would also point to this.

Probably a cheap imported fitting, purchased from thr Internet because it looked just like those expensive one's, but cost 75% less. Impossible to get parts for, so basically needs replacing when they fail. False economy.

Let your landlord know TODAY and ask if they can fix it ASAP as you are unable to use it in this condition. Don't let on that a $50-$100 repair could have been done on the originals, it won't be appreciated!

Also be aware of the positions of any isolating valves feeding the fitting. If the leaks become worse causing damage under the sink I would isolate the supply.

Good luck.

Thanks for the response. I talked to them, hopefully they'll be sending one of their "handymen" to come take a look either today or tomorrow. I can pm you some pictures and videos of whats been happening as a visual aid if it helps. I'd like to be prepared when they send their guy over in case they try to bullshit me with repairs or excuses.

By the way, is the internal mixing cartridge the same thing as a diverter or is that two separate parts?