Post: #1

I've been meaning to create this thread for a while. Basically, a place where people with blue collar skills can advise others seeking honest, unbiased advice from fellow Rooshers.

So, those of you who are tradesmen and happy to field questions, tell us what you can help with. Those looking for answers on anything from mechanics to dry walling to fabrication and even forestry, post your queries below.

I'll start the ball rolling. I am happy to advise upon:

General landscaping and outdoor works
Machinery repair
Fabrication and welding
Basic machining- turning, drilling, milling
Basic carpentry
Fencing
Groundworks
Outdoor fixings and fixtures
Workshop equipment- best tools for a particular job.

Post: #2

(06-15-2017 09:47 AM)roberto Wrote:  I've been meaning to create this thread for a while. Basically, a place where people with blue collar skills can advise others seeking honest, unbiased advice from fellow Rooshers.

So, those of you who are tradesmen and happy to field questions, tell us what you can help with. Those looking for answers on anything from mechanics to dry walling to fabrication and even forestry, post your queries below.

Roberto, great idea for a thread. Are you actually based in the UK?

Post: #3

I have a question for you Roberto.

I just bought a strimmer for my new garden. I have three questions;

1. How do you extend the cord on the head? It seems to have some kind of screw cap but I can't work out how to get it off

2. It's engine powered, what type of fuel do I put in it?

3. Strimming damp or wet grass doesn't work?

Ps. Not a tradesman as such but if you have any questions about skis, waxing equipment etc, I'm your man.

Post: #4

I've been a carpenter for 15 yrs, since I was 17 yrs old. Been self employed for 11 of those yrs. I can tell you how to do everything from concrete to building cabinets.
One thing I'll say though is that carpentry and construction methods can vary graeatly in different parts of the world. I'm from central Canada. So I know basic stud framing with drywalled interiors etc.

Post: #5

Ski pro,

Normally you "bump" the bottom of the "head" against the ground while reving the engine, the bump triggers a release and the centrifugal force spits out a bit more cord.
The engine will be a "two stroke". Mix two stroke engine oil with gasoline. Look up your model online for the correct ratio.

Post: #6

Great idea.

Laner:

- 17 years metal fabrication. Stainless/Alum/Steel. Red Seal certified.
- Stone processing. Cutting and polishing

Post: #7

Here's one for you gents.

I need to learn how to weld. Where do I start?

Should I invest in a MIG set and just start putting metal together? Do i have to worry about any problems of the metalurgic kind?

Post: #8

The Beast1, what about MMA? A bit cheaper alternative.

Post: #9

(06-16-2017 01:08 AM)The Beast1 Wrote:  Here's one for you gents.

I need to learn how to weld. Where do I start?

Should I invest in a MIG set and just start putting metal together? Do i have to worry about any problems of the metalurgic kind?

MIG is the easiest and the cleanest. A good, cheap set up can be had for $800 including a tank.

Good brands are Lincoln, Miller and ESAB. I use Miller personally, but that is only because I own it. Lincoln is great in Canada, Miller in the US and ESAB in Europe.

Get some clamps and an angle grinder set up and just start welding shit together. You will learn pretty fast. Get some scrap from a local fab shop to learn.

You will see fast if you might need to get into a TIG set up eventually. TIG is more for things like aluminum/stainless/titanium and gets better penetration.

For hobby beginners MIG is the way to go.

Post: #10

To add to Laner's post, I concur that MIG is easiest to learn. If I am assuming correctly Beast, you wish to do some repairs on your car? In this case MIG is the best choice as you can fine tune the power and wire feed to suit the job. You will just blow holes in bodywork if you try to use an arc (MMA), especially as an amateur.

I'd go for an inverter based setup. The Chinese built boards aren't bad, and I've used them in a semi pro capacity for years. Find an importer with good backup- R-Tech is good in the UK, not sure about the States. Look for one that goes down low on the amps- I think mine does from 10 amps up to 250 amps. You could probably get away with 10 to 150 amps. Inverter based sets give you more 'bang for your buck' in terms of consuming less power (can be run off extension lead at lower amperages) and longer duty cycle, plus decent ones add some computer control to the mix to make things easier. Whatever you do, avoid the 'gasless mig 40-110 amps' crap you will find in DIY shops. Any inverter MIG should offer MMA too, so you'd have both setups for not a lot of money. Some even offer TIG too, although TIG is a funny animal and there are so many ways to fine tune the tig experience that I'd recommend a dedicated box if you wish to do any amount.

Final thing- go with gas from the start. Gasless mig is a real bad compromise. Rent the biggest bottle you can move easily. Oh, and it kind of goes without saying these days, but use an auto-darkening helmet- you need both hands to weld effectively. Just avoid any DIY store 'welding starter kit' basically.

If you post more about the type of welding you wish to do, I'm sure Laner or I can advise you further upon welders and wire size.

Post: #11

(06-15-2017 02:14 PM)Ski pro Wrote:  I have a question for you Roberto.

I just bought a strimmer for my new garden. I have three questions;

1. How do you extend the cord on the head? It seems to have some kind of screw cap but I can't work out how to get it off

2. It's engine powered, what type of fuel do I put in it?

3. Strimming damp or wet grass doesn't work?

Ps. Not a tradesman as such but if you have any questions about skis, waxing equipment etc, I'm your man.

Need a bit more info mate. What model is it? Try bumping the head first whilst the machine is running (As mentioned). You can also (when turned off) press the bump bit in and manually pull some out. If someone has installed the cord the wrong way this may not work.

Fuel- again as previously mentioned probably two stroke but there are some 4 stroke machines about.

What exactly do you mean, strimming wet grass doesn't work? Does the head stop and the engine rev up?

Post: #12

(06-17-2017 03:45 AM)roberto Wrote:  amps. Inverter based sets give you more 'bang for your buck' in terms of consuming less power (can be run off extension lead at lower amperages) and longer duty cycle, .

Whoops, slightly misleading. Inverter duty cycles are longer than el cheapo mig sets, but not as good as a big water or oil cooled set. Their other main advantage is weight/portability compared to transformer based machines.

Post: #13

(06-15-2017 02:20 PM)Luther Wrote:  Ski pro,

Normally you "bump" the bottom of the "head" against the ground while reving the engine, the bump triggers a release and the centrifugal force spits out a bit more cord.
The engine will be a "two stroke". Mix two stroke engine oil with gasoline. Look up your model online for the correct ratio.

Thank you

Post: #14

(06-17-2017 03:52 AM)roberto Wrote:  

(06-15-2017 02:14 PM)Ski pro Wrote:  I have a question for you Roberto.

I just bought a strimmer for my new garden. I have three questions;

1. How do you extend the cord on the head? It seems to have some kind of screw cap but I can't work out how to get it off

2. It's engine powered, what type of fuel do I put in it?

3. Strimming damp or wet grass doesn't work?

Ps. Not a tradesman as such but if you have any questions about skis, waxing equipment etc, I'm your man.

Need a bit more info mate. What model is it? Try bumping the head first whilst the machine is running (As mentioned). You can also (when turned off) press the bump bit in and manually pull some out. If someone has installed the cord the wrong way this may not work.

Fuel- again as previously mentioned probably two stroke but there are some 4 stroke machines about.

What exactly do you mean, strimming wet grass doesn't work? Does the head stop and the engine rev up?

Regards the wet grass, I think it was actually a consequence of the cords being too short. Once i use it again, I'll let you k ow if it worked. Cheers

Post: #15

Thread bump...

Post: #16

Electrical, mostly residential. Some backup generator knowledge.

A common question I've gotten is how many things you can plug into an outlet before it trips the breaker or blows the fuse.

The easiest formula to figure that out is V(olts) x A(mps) = W(atts)

If you have a 15 Amp breaker at 120 Volts, the line is good for up to 1800 Watts.

Ever notice that her hair dryer has the button on the end of the cord to reset it when it stops working after a few minutes ? Hair dryers draw 1875 Watts. And it's easier to reset the little button instead of traipsing down to the basement every few minutes.

Most breakers have multiple outlets on them, typically 3-4 in the kitchen, and 5-6 in the other rooms. Sometimes the outlets will be on the same line but in different rooms (so the room doesn't lose complete power if the breaker trips).

Post: #17

How bad is draining bacon grease into the kitchen sink really?

Post: #18

I don't recommend it. But if you do it, run the water as hot as you can before dumping it and leave the water running for a bit after you pour it down the drain. If it solidifies in your pipes it's a pain in the ass to deal with, especially if it's not just in the trap.

I save my bacon grease and use it to cook other stuff. If you don't want to do that, you're better off just dumping it in a bowl and letting it cool, then scraping it into the trash. That's what I do when I drain the fat from ground beef or sausage when I'm cooking.

Post: #19

Anyone interested in welding should give oxyacetylene welding a serious look. It's the most versatile method (good for steel, aluminum, and cast iron, size limited by torch/tip and acetylene tank size, and brazing is a nice option), highly portable, and if you're welding anything big, you're going to want a torch anyway for preheating.

I don't have any welding gear right now unfortunately, but I used to have a MIG/flux core machine, and I've dabbled in everything but TIG. I'm going with a OA torch setup this time around because a fully capable rig will cost less than just running a 220V 50A circuit to my garage, let alone buying a decent welding machine on top of that.

Post: #20

(08-12-2017 12:23 PM)scotian Wrote:  How bad is draining bacon grease into the kitchen sink really?

Speaking from my own experience, I used to dump bacon (and other low viscosity) grease down my kitchen sink. Never gave it much thought.

Over time, the sink would drain slower and slower. It would take ten minutes to drain one side of a half filled twin stainless steel sink. Whenever I would run the dishwasher, water would back up into the sink for a few minutes depending on what cycle the dishwasher was in. Eventually it got to the point where I decided to figure out what the problem was.

The grease buildup in the trap had gotten so thick that I couldn't tell how the sink was draining in the first place. I ended up replacing the trap, and haven't had a problem since (knock on wood).

I experimented with the (now removed) grease filled trap, and discovered that the water was going through a small path in the grease, against the wall of the trap. The path was about the size of the "B" from the word "LIBERTY" on a US quarter. No wonder it took so long to drain.

Now when I make anything that will produce grease, I pour a little bit of water in the pan or baking tray and let it sit for a couple hours. The water helps clump up the grease, which I then scrape off into the garbage.

Try that method (water in the pan) next time you make something that leaves grease. Once you see that clumped up grease, and imagine that building up in your pipes, you'll never pour grease down the drain again.

Post: #21

(08-12-2017 12:23 PM)scotian Wrote:  How bad is draining bacon grease into the kitchen sink really?

Not bad at all. It's fine.

Why oh why would you go to the trouble of putting something that solidifies at room temperature in a jar




What does Life Hacker Know?

when you can have this?


18 Inches of joy.




Makes your arteries look like a slip and slide.






And a smoker's lungs look beauteous.



Do what you want.

Reasonable fellows that they are, plumbers shouldn't charge too much for dealing with this:

Post: #22

I just keep a metal soup can near the stove for grease and dump it when it gets full. Does the job and hides the gross look unless someone actually reaches back and takes a look in.

Post: #23

(08-12-2017 04:17 PM)debeguiled Wrote:  

Post: #24

OK, serious question for anyone familiar with tile setting:

I have a situation that's similar to this. (Not the bathroom we're doing, just a reference pic of someone asking the same kind of question.)



What we're doing is a fully tiled bath enclosure and then a wainscot in the rest of the room. We're using Schluter profile edging to avoid mitering outside corners, etc. The product is well-known in the United States, but for reference, it works like this:




This lets you create a rolled edge between 90-degree outside corners or a smooth transition to drywall.

The problem is going to be the 'T' area where the horizontal edge from the wainscot on the outside joins the vertical edge of the plumbing wall. The tile sits 1/4" proud of the drywall, and either the vertical edge is going be 1/4" proud of the drywall where it runs above the wainscot OR it's going to be flush with the plumbing wall corner, and then it won't meet the profile coming off the top of the wainscot.

The "technically right" answer is probably to make a pair of tiny inside corners like a Tetris piece so that the tiled edge meets the tile at the bottom and then jog it over 1/4" to sit flush with the drywall, but that's going to look like shit and happen right at the focal point when you walk inside. Nobody will "not notice" that. Plus, we wanted to do something different down that edge and would need a straight line there to do it.

We've rocked out the entire room before my contractor, tile guy, and I all started staring at it and had an "uh oh" moment together.

My first thought is that I should have just tiled the entire fucking room, floor-to-ceiling, and I still might, but it's overkill for the neighborhood at resale.

Second thought is that maybe we could recess the tile by adding another 1/4" of sheetrock and have a smooth transition to the tile wainscot.

Third thought is that I should get some kind of marble pencil trim and abandon the Schluter, like below, but I've never seen that look good when people try to match different products: it wouldn't be a match for the tile, just 'close'.

Post: #25

(08-12-2017 12:44 PM)weambulance Wrote:  Anyone interested in welding should give oxyacetylene welding a serious look. It's the most versatile method (good for steel, aluminum, and cast iron, size limited by torch/tip and acetylene tank size, and brazing is a nice option), highly portable, and if you're welding anything big, you're going to want a torch anyway for preheating.

I don't have any welding gear right now unfortunately, but I used to have a MIG/flux core machine, and I've dabbled in everything but TIG. I'm going with a OA torch setup this time around because a fully capable rig will cost less than just running a 220V 50A circuit to my garage, let alone buying a decent welding machine on top of that.

Whilst I agree Oxy is versatile, over here the voltage is 240 standard. So it's easy to run a 32a socket, and you can even pull some pretty juicy welding amps off a standard 16amp socket with an inverter based set.

The main problem for me with oxyacetylene is it's cost, and those cylinders are a pain to lug around. That, and the fire service/insurance companies treat you like you have a bomb in your yard. I use propane and oxygen for heating things for that reason. It's much less hassle to acquire.