Post: #101

Love that George Clooney look!
I have a slim fit black Hugo Boss suit, slim fit black shirt and some very nice black leather shoes.
I feel a million dollars when i go out and get plenty of compliments!

Post: #102

(12-05-2011 06:22 PM)xsplat Wrote:  

(10-18-2011 01:54 PM)LostGringo Wrote:  Ok, some if not many will find this lame, bordering on pathetic, but all I can tell you is that this is magic. ... Shit, if I were 30........I'd do the exact same thing all over again.

There was a book written by a con artist who went so far as to get free flights in the cockpit of airlines using this ruse. He'd also cash bogus checks at banks, using the suit as a social engineering trick to gain trust.

The pilot suit got him laid all over the place too.

He was only 16 when he started doing this.

He eventually wound up doing hard time in an isolation chamber dungeon in France. After he got out he became a security consultant and published his book.

Too extreme to be true, too true to not give a man pause.

A suit. All you need is a fucking suit.

Frank Abagnale


Catch me if you can is based on him

Post: #103

I have some Custom Tailored suits. But, the 100% all wool merinos get very hot & sweaty.

What I really want is jackets/ suits that are thin, light and can be put on any time, even in relatively warm weather.

What fabrics would I go for at that time?

Post: #104

A respected men's style blog reviewed the suits I mentioned earlier, and confidently states they are the best suit you can buy at their price level, of about $500. Not to mention many of the patterns are interesting and suited for night game.

Link

Post: #105

^^ Great find, basilransom.
I live in NYC - will go check them out.

Post: #106

(12-12-2011 01:21 PM)basilransom Wrote:  A respected men's style blog reviewed the suits I mentioned earlier, and confidently states they are the best suit you can buy at their price level, of about $500. Not to mention many of the patterns are interesting and suited for night game.

Link

Nice... I will pay these guys a visit next time I'm in NYC. This looks really fucking good, because I do look very good in a suit.

Post: #107

(11-16-2011 08:58 PM)basilransom Wrote:  

(11-14-2011 12:35 AM)RipSaw Wrote:  Another excellent site: atailoredsuit.com/mens-style-guide-tailored-suit.html

For their prices, those suits look terribly uninspiring. I would not recommend them.

Suit Supply ( http://www.suitsupply.com/shop/1./Suits ) looks promising; I don't have any personal experience with them, but they've gotten good write ups, and they seem to be good for the price of $400-700. Brooks Brothers is solid too, in the 1818 lines. Here is a review of Suit Supply from the WSJ: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424...84478.html

I went into Macy's the other day, and tried out their suits. They all felt awkward. You can't imagine what a better suit feels like until you've tried one on. I have a suit from Polo Blue Label, made by Corneliani I believe, and it is vastly superior to everything from the cheaper labels. When I try on the cheap suits, it just feels wrong, because the suit is stuffed with padding in the chest and shoulders, and doesn't drape well. In my experience, Brooks Brothers is the cheapest maker of decent suits.

Here is a trailer of a documentary on Neapolitan tailoring, for an idea of how nice suits look and wear:

A Tailored Suit is made to measure. Suit supply isn't. They're not in the same class.

Post: #108

(12-09-2011 06:27 AM)xmlenigma Wrote:  I have some Custom Tailored suits. But, the 100% all wool merinos get very hot & sweaty.

What I really want is jackets/ suits that are thin, light and can be put on any time, even in relatively warm weather.

What fabrics would I go for at that time?

Linen or seersucker are generally considered warm weather suit material. You're just going to look like somebody shot you with a wrinkle gun after you wear one for more than a few hours... and they generally look good in pastel/light colors only.

Post: #109

(12-09-2011 06:27 AM)xmlenigma Wrote:  wool merinos get very hot & sweaty.

What I really want is jackets/ suits that are thin, light and can be put on any time, even in relatively warm weather.

Try lightweight, tropical wool. You can wear a (dark colored) lightweight suit in the winter, but a heavy or even all-weather wool suit will be oppressive in summer heat and humidity.

Again, I wore suits for work, not game. But be careful about these suit reviews. There are different styles (natural versus padded shoulders, two versus three buttons versus double-breasted, sexy European verus British versus American sack), and the fit is important. Get a jacket that fits well, with a nice drape on your body, and decent tailoring. That is worth several hundred in quality.

Again, get something versatile in a dark, solid color. You can get a textured fabric (houndstooth, faint glen plaid) without a strong stripe or plaid. Then you can wear it anywear and dress it up with shirts, ties, and accessories. Solid suits don't have problems matching patterns at the seams, and are more forgiving of tailoring. You could buy an expensive suit with an orange windowpane plaid, and a cream-colored linen suit. But you will only wear them once per year with the matching tie. In contrast you will easily find a lightweight grey or navy suit that fits great, and you will wear it often.

Sales occur after Christmas and July 4th. So get out there and get a bargain now!

Post: #110

(01-01-2012 12:29 PM)CGS Wrote:  

(12-09-2011 06:27 AM)xmlenigma Wrote:  I have some Custom Tailored suits. But, the 100% all wool merinos get very hot & sweaty.

What I really want is jackets/ suits that are thin, light and can be put on any time, even in relatively warm weather.

What fabrics would I go for at that time?

Linen or seersucker are generally considered warm weather suit material. You're just going to look like somebody shot you with a wrinkle gun after you wear one for more than a few hours... and they generally look good in pastel/light colors only.

I seem to be seeing Linen & Cotton as the options or a blend.

Isnt there some kind of fabric that would resist wrinkles but be cooling?

(01-01-2012 12:42 PM)kimleebj Wrote:  

(12-09-2011 06:27 AM)xmlenigma Wrote:  wool merinos get very hot & sweaty.

What I really want is jackets/ suits that are thin, light and can be put on any time, even in relatively warm weather.

Try lightweight, tropical wool. You can wear a (dark colored) lightweight suit in the winter, but a heavy or even all-weather wool suit will be oppressive in summer heat and humidity.

Again, I wore suits for work, not game. But be careful about these suit reviews. There are different styles (natural versus padded shoulders, two versus three buttons versus double-breasted, sexy European verus British versus American sack), and the fit is important. Get a jacket that fits well, with a nice drape on your body, and decent tailoring. That is worth several hundred in quality.

Again, get something versatile in a dark, solid color. You can get a textured fabric (houndstooth, faint glen plaid) without a strong stripe or plaid. Then you can wear it anywear and dress it up with shirts, ties, and accessories. Solid suits don't have problems matching patterns at the seams, and are more forgiving of tailoring. You could buy an expensive suit with an orange windowpane plaid, and a cream-colored linen suit. But you will only wear them once per year with the matching tie. In contrast you will easily find a lightweight grey or navy suit that fits great, and you will wear it often.

Sales occur after Christmas and July 4th. So get out there and get a bargain now!

I wonder what is tropical wool? I am talking not in terms of game. But in terms of lifestyle to always be suited up.

But given the heat in asia.. and summers in texas, I doubt if any wool will help. What kind of wool is tropical wool? Is it really going to be cooler?

I have some contacts who used to be in the custom suit business in Asia. They have some of the best tailors and workmen.
I'd just like to figure out what fabrics would be best to have.

I am considering .. cream.. biege.. steel gray.. etc kind of lighter shades whether solid.. or some kind of pattern.

I wouldnt mind a navy one as well but that would make it a little warmer and I have one anyways.

So, is Linen the way to go? Anything that would resist "the wrinkle gun" effect ??

The Suit Supply Spring/ Summer Collection has some Linen / Cotton suits that look decent. I am wondering if I could take inspiration from them and go look for similar fabrics and get them stitched by my contacts.

Post: #111

This is a good thread. Once I hit 30, I'm ONLY rocking custom suits. I'm spending the meantime getting in the best shape that I can so that those suits look right. It's only right man. International players that have explored women in foreign lands, traveled, etc. HAVE TO further separate themselves from the herd and let their presence be known when they enter a room; peacock style.

Post: #112

(01-01-2012 01:51 AM)RipSaw Wrote:  

(11-16-2011 08:58 PM)basilransom Wrote:  

(11-14-2011 12:35 AM)RipSaw Wrote:  Another excellent site: atailoredsuit.com/mens-style-guide-tailored-suit.html

For their prices, those suits look terribly uninspiring. I would not recommend them.

Suit Supply ( http://www.suitsupply.com/shop/1./Suits ) looks promising; I don't have any personal experience with them, but they've gotten good write ups, and they seem to be good for the price of $400-700. Brooks Brothers is solid too, in the 1818 lines. Here is a review of Suit Supply from the WSJ: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424...84478.html

I went into Macy's the other day, and tried out their suits. They all felt awkward. You can't imagine what a better suit feels like until you've tried one on. I have a suit from Polo Blue Label, made by Corneliani I believe, and it is vastly superior to everything from the cheaper labels. When I try on the cheap suits, it just feels wrong, because the suit is stuffed with padding in the chest and shoulders, and doesn't drape well. In my experience, Brooks Brothers is the cheapest maker of decent suits.

Here is a trailer of a documentary on Neapolitan tailoring, for an idea of how nice suits look and wear:

A Tailored Suit is made to measure. Suit supply isn't. They're not in the same class.

You're comparing a Porsche to a 3 Series. A Tailored Suit costs $1200-1500 per suit, while Suit Supply costs $400-700. And I'm not sure A Tailored Suit is Porsche quality either. Do you work for them?

There aren't many reviews on A Tailored Suit, and even if there were... Satisfaction with MTM off the internet is not terribly high, because it's fraught with problems. They don't measure you. When you have different people measuring, or one unskilled person measuring, you get imprecise measurements, and a less than optimal fit. They also don't make a pattern just for you, as they do in true bespoke. They fit a pre-existing pattern to your (imprecise) measurements.

I don't have experience with MTM, but those who do say that MTM is not custom 'enough' to be much improvement over a well-chosen off the rack suit. Unless you have very strange proportions, you're better off finding a line of off the rack suits that already fit you.

If I wanted to spend a grand or more on a suit, I'd look into getting an off the rack number from one of the Italian makers, or possibly a Hickey Freeman. Or buy a new suit off eBay. Maybe a custom number from Asia if I was already there.

Post: #113

(01-02-2012 12:40 PM)basilransom Wrote:  There aren't many reviews on A Tailored Suit, and even if there were...

If I wanted to spend a grand or more on a suit, I'd look into getting an off the rack number from one of the Italian makers, or possibly a Hickey Freeman.

Yes. Foremost, a suit must fit well. A true fully-custom suit requires multiple fittings. A semi-custom has one fitting. If it comes back bad then you are screwed. I have had a mediocre experience with semi-custom, and Consumer Reports shared my opinion.

In contrast, you can go to high-end department stores (Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales, Neimann-Marcus, Dillards) and try on the jackets. You can also try the separates at Brooks Brothers or Joseph Banks. Then you will find a jacket that fits beautifully. Adjust the sleeves, pant waist and cuffs, and you are done.

The semi-custom stuff over the internet is just going to get you a standard jacket based on a few measurements. It will be hit or miss. Go to a real store (or several) and try on the darned jackets. Then you will know. It will be cheaper and take less time too.

Post: #114

(01-02-2012 02:37 PM)kimleebj Wrote:  

(01-02-2012 12:40 PM)basilransom Wrote:  There aren't many reviews on A Tailored Suit, and even if there were...

If I wanted to spend a grand or more on a suit, I'd look into getting an off the rack number from one of the Italian makers, or possibly a Hickey Freeman.

Yes. Foremost, a suit must fit well. A true fully-custom suit requires multiple fittings. A semi-custom has one fitting. If it comes back bad then you are screwed. I have had a mediocre experience with semi-custom, and Consumer Reports shared my opinion.

In contrast, you can go to high-end department stores (Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales, Neimann-Marcus, Dillards) and try on the jackets. You can also try the separates at Brooks Brothers or Joseph Banks. Then you will find a jacket that fits beautifully. Adjust the sleeves, pant waist and cuffs, and you are done.

The semi-custom stuff over the internet is just going to get you a standard jacket based on a few measurements. It will be hit or miss. Go to a real store (or several) and try on the darned jackets. Then you will know. It will be cheaper and take less time too.

Exactly.

You also don't really know how a suit is cut until you try it on. You can have two jackets of different makers, with the same exact sizes, chest, shoulder, waist measurements, etc., and they will fit very differently. At that point, all the measurements in the world won't matter. That's why trying on different suits in different sizes will give you more choice than opting for a single MTM suit.

If you've already found a maker with a cut to your liking, eg Brooks Brothers, an MTM might make more sense. Then again, if your proportions aren't strange, I'm not sure it would be much better than an off the rack suit with some post-purchase tailoring instead.

Post: #115

If you're going to do MTM eventually, your best bet up-front is to buy something off the rack, have it tailored, and get CLOSE. You can then send this garment to your MTM provider and say "change x, change y". You will end up with a better final product via this method than you will via body measurements. Just got to Zara and try stuff on, get alterations done, then when you're ready you can send it to a MTM shop and get them to use it as a template for you.

SuitSupply is decent, Thick as Thieves is better (i.e. full canvas, more options, more flexibility, same price).

Obviously full-blown bespoke is always best, but not everyone is going to spend $4k/suit. I would if I could rationalize it, but I can't.

Post: #116

Roosh,

Let's get some feedback on this.

The anticipation is killing me.

Post: #117

I still need to collect more data.

Post: #118

(01-05-2012 11:36 AM)Roosh Wrote:  I still need to collect more data.

How about some "early first impressions" for the crew?

Post: #119

I have a first suit question. I've noticed when trying on jackets that I lose mobility in my arms even if the jacket is bigger than what fits.
At that point I stopped looking. I know that you're not supposed to be playing baseball in a suit but that loss of mobility would drive me crazy to the point that I would never wear it. Does a full custom suit correct this?

Post: #120

what do you mean by loss of mobility? i just put on a suit jacket to try and answer your question and basically once you get your arms above parallel to the floor it stiffens up.

Post: #121

(01-06-2012 02:15 PM)Brian Wrote:  what do you mean by loss of mobility? i just put on a suit jacket to try and answer your question and basically once you get your arms above parallel to the floor it stiffens up.

El mech -

Yeah, I am not sure I follow 100% either.

But to answer your question, yes, a Custom Suit will help immensely.

It is Custom to your body. Nothing is more comfortable. I can sleep in Custom Suits.

When someone tells me, "I don't like suits, they are not comfortable".

I don't even have to ask "Is it Custom?"

Because 10000% of the time the answer is "No".

Look for suits with "higher armholes", that could be your antidote.

Post: #122

(01-06-2012 02:19 PM)thegmanifesto Wrote:  Look for suits with "higher armholes", that could be your antidote.

That's the ticket. Check out Fred Astair



He had to dance in his dinner jackets, so flexibility was a must. The key to flexibility is a high armhole. Shoulders with light to no padding helps too.

Compare the above with this, a standard crappy suit:



They make you look like you're trying to hide a set of wings. The armhole is easily double the size of Astair's. Elegance sans high armscyes does not exist. Suits with higher armholes are a little harder to get on, but once on, they're much more liberal in their allowance for movement.

Post: #123

Sweet! I will take another run at it. I guess what I was trying to say is when I reach for something I feel the jackets restricting me. This is going to come off wrong but here it is. My big mouth gets me in enough trouble by itself. My big mouth + being the best dressed person in the room spells disaster. The first thing that popped into my head when trying on jackets was Ohh shit! I hope I'm not wearing this when some shit starts. Greeks fight at weddings etc. That's just how it is.

Post: #124

you dont want to be wearing a suit and fighting, you'll just trash the suit, and no matter how well your suit fits its going to cause some restriction in your arm movement

Post: #125