Post: #76

Not for everyone, but if you can afford to spend $1,200-$1,500 and if you're body weight is stable, I highly recommend purchasing a bespoke suit and shirt from WW Chan, an excellent Hong Kong tailor. I've had clothing made in both Hong Kong and Shanghai, and in my experience, the service and tailors were better and less expensive in Shanghai, though both are excellent.

This November they are touring the US and they will return in March.

http://www.wwchan.com/itinerary.pdf

Edited to add: If you're going to suit up then you absolutely need a high quality pair of shoes. If you're willing to break the bank, my favorite are Zegna's, but imo minimum acceptable quality and best bang for the buck is Magnanni.

Post: #77

Dior Homme is pretty sweet but crazy expensive

Post: #78

Don't know if anyone recommended this Roosh, but with your build (from your posted photos, don't know how recent they are), minimize the number of buttons on the jacket. No more than 3. If you go higher than 3, you'll start to look tubular.

I also agree with previous commenters that say an off the rack suit can look great with some tailoring and the right accessories. I had a $200 suit that got more compliments than my $500 suit over the life of their use. I just happened to have the perfect shirt & tie to go with it.

Post: #79

Right now I have suits I bought off the rack from mom and pop men's stores that I've gotten tailored.

I just found a tailor in my area, though, who makes custom suits from whole cloth. I'm about to splurge in a month or so and get a custom suit.

Post: #80

I just bought four suit jackets from Goodwill. At $6.00 apiece it was a hell of a deal.
At least I know to buy the new ones from Zara.

Post: #81

If anyone is on a budget, or if you just don't want to spend too much on clothes, you should check out dappered.com
Joe always has the lowdown on all the deals, focussing on online/mail order shopping. I'm not form the U.S. so alot of the deals don't work for me, but I've still learned alot from his blog. I read his posts and then find similar stuff/deals in Canada. I've checked out a few different style blogs as I've been evolving from jeans and hoodie guy to suit and tie man... I always keep going back to dappered. It's a huge plus that he's teaching how to do it all on the cheap. Although sometimes I buy the expensive option that he is trying to emulate rather than the cheap alternative. Quality really does show, and I'm not on a budget, although the average person/chic can't tell the difference.

*edit* he's a big supporter of "Indochino" a mail order suit company from Canada that makes suits to your measure. They are a very successful company although quality/fit can be hit or miss based on the comments on his blog. It stands to reason that the fit can only be as good as the measures of yourself that you send them as well.

Post: #82

Another excellent site: atailoredsuit.com/mens-style-guide-tailored-suit.html
I'll be coming into some cash in about a month or two (a bank heist... it's an inside job... just kidding G). I'm seriously thinking about dropping five grand on these guys. For that much you get a bespoke wardrobe consisting of four suits and half a dozen custom shirts. They seem very professional and legit, they assign a stylist too work with you and design your shirts/suits to all be interchangeble and shit.
I live in the boonies so an option like these guys is very attractive to me, but the above address is just a great archive for those who are just getting into suits. Check it out.

Post: #83

hell this turned into an advertising forum! if somebody's on budget they should buy from H&M, trust me.

Post: #84

(11-14-2011 12:31 PM)bengalltigerr Wrote:  hell this turned into an advertising forum! if somebody's on budget they should buy from H&M, trust me.

I would strongly recommend staying from H&M. Suits from there look very cheap and won't really impress anyone. To me they seem to be very stiff and look unnatural. Zara makes solid, fashionable suits at great prices. My first non business suit was from Zara and I thought it looked great until I got my first custom suit. Once you go custom you never go back. If anyone of you guys are ever in Asia(Thailand, Vietnam, HK) you can pick up a custom suit there for under $300. If you cant make it out to Asia, get a mid range off the rack suit and splurge on the tailor. Do not ever wear a suit off the rack unless some how magically your are the exact same size as the mannequin they designed it for. Also if your skinny I would stay away from pinstripes/opposite if your larger. Also don't get a 3 button suit unless you are very tall. Also if you think you're going to be wearing the suit for a long time, I would avoid getting the lapels to thin. Even though it is the style right now it might be way out of style 5 years from now. If you are looking for a shorter term suit definitely get thin lapels. I can talk about suits for days so let me know if you guys have any questions.

Post: #85

What kind/label of suits are better for guys who are buffer in the upper body? I am pretty skinny in the waist (around a 32-33") but I have big thighs, big chest, and a big, broad shoulders. Kind of like how a US Marine would be built.

I can fit into regular Zara shirts fine - they are a little tight - but the slim fit shirts, forget it. I practically rip the arms off at the shoulderseams.

Im sort of built like this guy (no homo) but with bigger/wider shoulders and chest, bigger arms, and not quite a skinny in the waist. Imagine him about 10 lbs heavier (assuming he's around 6' tall.)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/2869...d6b6a6.jpg

I'm 6" and around 190 lbs.

Post: #86

(10-18-2011 10:42 AM)Aliblahba Wrote:  Find a good tailor and have them tweak the fit. An off the rack suit can look custom from good tailoring. Express has good suits also, if there's one in your neck of the woods.

True that. Even if you think the fit is great, seeking out a tailor is a smart move. A guy in an off the rack suit that's been tailored usually will look better than a guy with all the funky labels and what not. Plus, if it gets damaged you're not kicking yourself.

My experiance with rocking suits has been mostly positive, even as a high schooler. Sometimes me and a few friends will dress up a tad for parties and stuff in suits, and the women always appreciate it
But,
some people just pull off different looks better than other people

Post: #87

(11-14-2011 11:00 PM)BTman Wrote:  I would strongly recommend staying from H&M. Suits from there look very cheap and won't really impress anyone. To me they seem to be very stiff and look unnatural. Zara makes solid, fashionable suits at great prices.

Hogwash.

Having previously been involved in retail supply chain I can tell you that Zara and H&M share many suppliers and are built on the came commercial concept. Any differences between them are solely in design (which changes frequently) and thus just your perception. I've had both Zara & H&M suits and for 95% of all people won't be able to tell them apart from a designer suit. Sad truth.

Post: #88

I will say that after trying both H&M and Zara suits, the ones from H&M seemed to be lower craftmanship.

Post: #89

Do you have Uniqlo there? Their suits in the J+ range are top notch quality, a good deal better than what you get at Zara or H&M at a similar price.

Post: #90

(11-15-2011 12:46 AM)Sugar Wrote:  What kind/label of suits are better for guys who are buffer in the upper body? I am pretty skinny in the waist (around a 32-33") but I have big thighs, big chest, and a big, broad shoulders. Kind of like how a US Marine would be built.

I can fit into regular Zara shirts fine - they are a little tight - but the slim fit shirts, forget it. I practically rip the arms off at the shoulderseams.

Im sort of built like this guy (no homo) but with bigger/wider shoulders and chest, bigger arms, and not quite a skinny in the waist. Imagine him about 10 lbs heavier (assuming he's around 6' tall.)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/2869...d6b6a6.jpg

I'm 6" and around 190 lbs.

Might help if you know your jacket measurement? Are you a 40 long, a 42?

Post: #91

(11-15-2011 11:47 AM)Caligula Wrote:  Do you have Uniqlo there? Their suits in the J+ range are top notch quality, a good deal better than what you get at Zara or H&M at a similar price.

Gotta agree - Uniqlo have the best-fitting clothes around and they're made really well. Zara comes second, with River Island a poor third. H&M's fit is off and there seems to be less craftsmanship (everyone wearing a H&M suit looks like they borrowed it from their dad) but their more expensive shirts look and fit really well in my experience.

Post: #92

Suited down is the way to roll...

I got stood up on a date tonight...only hung around for 10 minutes but she was a no show.

So suited up after work trench coat and all looking slick I rolled around town solo. Hit up a Colombian chick on the street in the freezing cold got her number.

Then got the train home..got opened by a very cute chick..she even used my line on me 'Is this train for xxx?' (She's been reading Day Bang ;-) ) Then set up a date with her.

Power to the suit.

Post: #93

(11-14-2011 12:35 AM)RipSaw Wrote:  Another excellent site: atailoredsuit.com/mens-style-guide-tailored-suit.html

For their prices, those suits look terribly uninspiring. I would not recommend them.

Suit Supply ( http://www.suitsupply.com/shop/1./Suits ) looks promising; I don't have any personal experience with them, but they've gotten good write ups, and they seem to be good for the price of $400-700. Brooks Brothers is solid too, in the 1818 lines. Here is a review of Suit Supply from the WSJ: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424...84478.html

I went into Macy's the other day, and tried out their suits. They all felt awkward. You can't imagine what a better suit feels like until you've tried one on. I have a suit from Polo Blue Label, made by Corneliani I believe, and it is vastly superior to everything from the cheaper labels. When I try on the cheap suits, it just feels wrong, because the suit is stuffed with padding in the chest and shoulders, and doesn't drape well. In my experience, Brooks Brothers is the cheapest maker of decent suits.

Here is a trailer of a documentary on Neapolitan tailoring, for an idea of how nice suits look and wear:

Post: #94

(11-16-2011 08:58 PM)basilransom Wrote:  [Wall Street Journal Review:] In my experience, Brooks Brothers is the cheapest maker of decent suits.

We have a critical issue of business suits versus game suit. Business suits are made to conform, fit in, and be a "team player". American suits often have natural shoulders, while British cuts usually have padded shoulders. Then there is the European fit with a narrower, shaped waist.

But for game, you aren't trying to look like a trustworthy accountant. You want some style and flair. It isn't expensive to get a colored shirt, a pocket square, and some cufflinks. I think you should really discuss the distinctions between the boring, albeit expensive, business suit, and the successful pick-up suit.

Post: #95

(11-16-2011 10:10 PM)kimleebj Wrote:  

(11-16-2011 08:58 PM)basilransom Wrote:  [Wall Street Journal Review:] In my experience, Brooks Brothers is the cheapest maker of decent suits.

We have a critical issue of business suits versus game suit. Business suits are made to conform, fit in, and be a "team player". American suits often have natural shoulders, while British cuts usually have padded shoulders. Then there is the European fit with a narrower, shaped waist.

But for game, you aren't trying to look like a trustworthy accountant. You want some style and flair. It isn't expensive to get a colored shirt, a pocket square, and some cufflinks. I think you should really discuss the distinctions between the boring, albeit expensive, business suit, and the successful pick-up suit.

The primary difference between the ideal business and pickup suit is the fabric. A slim well cut fit is recommended for both business and doing work. If I had a tailor make me a single breasted suit for each, from scratch, I'd have him do the same cut for each suit. Some people think double breasted suits are too flashy for work, though I'd disagree, but other than that... I don't see any reason to get different cuts for work and play.

If your suit is in a conservative color, and it's still not fit for work, then it must be because it has a faddish fit. And that's not a good look in the long run, and probably not even in the short term either. I'm looking at Zara's lineup, and the main difference between it and BB's 1818 lines is that Zara's lapels are (too) thin and the jackets (too) short.

I was speaking of BB in terms of quality of construction. They have some nice fits, but the patterns are a little muted for laying game. Then again, if you get the fit right, you can still get bold shirts, pocket square, tie, cuff links, etc. and look money. The BB Fitzgerald looks pretty good.

Post: #96

(11-15-2011 06:04 PM)MrM27 Wrote:  

(11-15-2011 12:46 AM)Sugar Wrote:  What kind/label of suits are better for guys who are buffer in the upper body? I am pretty skinny in the waist (around a 32-33") but I have big thighs, big chest, and a big, broad shoulders. Kind of like how a US Marine would be built.

I can fit into regular Zara shirts fine - they are a little tight - but the slim fit shirts, forget it. I practically rip the arms off at the shoulderseams.

Im sort of built like this guy (no homo) but with bigger/wider shoulders and chest, bigger arms, and not quite a skinny in the waist. Imagine him about 10 lbs heavier (assuming he's around 6' tall.)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/2869...d6b6a6.jpg

I'm 6" and around 190 lbs.

Might help if you know your jacket measurement? Are you a 40 long, a 42?

I am around a 40 regular. Should get measured again.

Post: #97

(11-22-2011 06:33 PM)Sugar Wrote:  

(11-15-2011 06:04 PM)MrM27 Wrote:  

(11-15-2011 12:46 AM)Sugar Wrote:  What kind/label of suits are better for guys who are buffer in the upper body? I am pretty skinny in the waist (around a 32-33") but I have big thighs, big chest, and a big, broad shoulders. Kind of like how a US Marine would be built.

I can fit into regular Zara shirts fine - they are a little tight - but the slim fit shirts, forget it. I practically rip the arms off at the shoulderseams.

Im sort of built like this guy (no homo) but with bigger/wider shoulders and chest, bigger arms, and not quite a skinny in the waist. Imagine him about 10 lbs heavier (assuming he's around 6' tall.)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/2869...d6b6a6.jpg

I'm 6" and around 190 lbs.

Might help if you know your jacket measurement? Are you a 40 long, a 42?

I am around a 40 regular. Should get measured again.

Definitely walk into a store, get measured and talk to the guys working there. We're roughly the same build (I'm a 40 long, 6'1" 180). I'd stick to 3 buttons or less for a jacket. You can easily wear wide lapels since your torso has the shape suits are meant to showcase. Ultimately, buy something you like. Wouldn't hurt to start with a blazer or jacket to get a feel for what works and what gets reactions. When I lived in England, I had a 5 button suit to fit in with the Euros at that time and it was a mistake.

Post: #98

every man should have a couple suits. if you're going off the rack, J Crew actually has some really nice shit

http://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/weartoworkshop.jsp

all these suits work with/without a tie, vest, suspenders, etc

Post: #99

If anyone is interested in getting custom suits in Asia, this is a great thread:

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/th...ID=1207953

Post: #100

(10-18-2011 01:54 PM)LostGringo Wrote:  Ok, some if not many will find this lame, bordering on pathetic, but all I can tell you is that this is magic. ... Shit, if I were 30........I'd do the exact same thing all over again.

There was a book written by a con artist who went so far as to get free flights in the cockpit of airlines using this ruse. He'd also cash bogus checks at banks, using the suit as a social engineering trick to gain trust.

The pilot suit got him laid all over the place too.

He was only 16 when he started doing this.

He eventually wound up doing hard time in an isolation chamber dungeon in France. After he got out he became a security consultant and published his book.

Too extreme to be true, too true to not give a man pause.

A suit. All you need is a fucking suit.