Post: #1

Good shoes properly matched can make even a mediocre suit look good and lively.




Here is a guide to your suit shoes, in order of formality from most to least.


General rules of thumb:

Oxfords are more formal than derbies, though recently that line has blurred.

Smooth leather is more formal than scotch grain, suede, and cloth.

Plain toe is more formal than cap toe than wingtips.

Plain shoes are more formal than brogue (decorative perforations on the shoe).

Blind brogues are more formal than quarter brogues than half brogues than full brogues.

Black is more formal than brown. Dark colors are more formal than light and bright colors and two-tone.

Brown and non-black shoes will probably make up the majority of your shoe collection. They go together with just about everything--all colors besides black and some (but not all) grey, almost all tweed, jeans, blazers, khakis, and even "go to hell pants".

Post: #2

Opera pumps and Patent leather shoes.

These are for wear with a morning stroller and top hat to an ultra-formal white-tie event, possibly with The Queen of England in attendance.
Maybe a tuxedo, though for that I personally prefer wholecut (made from one piece of leather) patent leather oxfords.




Wholecut patent leather oxfords:

Post: #3

The most formal you will probably need is the black cap toe oxford. It will even do fine duty substituting for patent leather shoe.



Oxfords, also called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle, come in all styles and colors, at once being some of the most and least formal shoes. They are most versatile shoes, ranging from super formal patent leather, to super casual spectators.





Derby is just as ubiquitous and useful as the oxford, with a similar range of options. They tend to be somewhat more comfortable to wear.



Oxfords are distinguished by the closed lacing from the derbies, which have open lacing.

There is a distinction between brogues and bluchers, but it's an academic one. For all intents and purposes, they are the same.

Post: #4

Brogueing and Decoration.
Brogueing is the decorative perforation on the shoe. It was initially invented to let the water escape the shoe, which is a concern in the Gaelic bog.

Blind or Austerity brogues. It is an absence of brogueing.






Unless you have a kilt on, I don’t suggest you wear the Ghillie brogue.

Post: #5

Monk-straps and Split-toes.
Once you already have a good shoe collection, add this for flair and variety. They are in the same class as the brogues, and don’t accomplish anything that the brogues cannot.

Post: #6

Slip-Ons and Loafers
Norwegians really invented the loafer, after they replicated a very American moccasin. In the ‘30s G.H. Bass introduced these ‘weejuns’ that they still make.



Loafers are decidedly informal. In fact, up until the 50s and 60s they were not worn with a suit. That changed when Gucci introduced a horse-bit (they made horse saddles in prior life) loafer in black.
Italians with their hot climate loved them. It is now acceptable to wear loafers with your summer suit, blazer and sport coat.



There are also Belgian loafers, tassel loafers and penny loafers, supposedly because you were able to put a penny in the slot of each shoe and make a phone call which back in the day cost 2 cents. Please don’t actually do it.





Slip-Ons are not really loafers, because they don’t have moccasin construction of the loafer, and thus have a more formal look. They are appropriate even with a pin-stripe black suit in certain situations, like going through airport security.

Post: #7

What can you wear in hot weather besides loafers? You have two wonderfully American options--white bucks and saddle shoes, which are sometimes made with perforations for better ventilation. They are a perfect match for the seersucker and the white linen suit.

Post: #8

Boat shoes are super informal, and probably should only be worn on boats. They can be worn with light linen slacks and polo shirt, and even shorts.
Do not wear them with a suit.

Post: #9

Recommendations:

With all the dizzying array of shoes before you, you might wonder, "Well, where do I start?"

You want the shoes that will afford you the widest range of situations.

The classic black cap-toe oxford will allow you to step out to an interview, wear with a tuxedo to a formal event, and will go well with all your black, grey, and even dark blue suits.



Full-brogued light brown derby will be your less formal shoe that will wear well with grey and all blue suits, as well as jeans and blazers.



Cordovan/burgundy/oxblood penny loafers do well with jeans, blazers, sport coats, and even Nantucket Reds.



Once you have these three essential shoes, you can start tailoring your collection to your style.


Recommended brands:
Allen Edmonds
Paul Evans
Ace Marks
Crocket and Jones


Retailers:
http://www.shoepassion.com
http://www.pediwear.co.uk
http://www.robinsonsshoes.com


These are simply examples. There are plenty more good ones, especially ones you find in British stores

Post: #10

How to lace your oxfords:
While derbies are usually criss-cross laced, this lacing on an oxford shoe will put pressure on top of your foot and it will hurt.
Oxfords are traditionally bar-laced.




How to tie your shoes:

Yes, you've been doing it wrong all your life.

Post: #11

What to avoid:

Avoid hipster shoes like the plague.




The shoes below make you look like a peasant country bumpkin. For that matter, it's not fair to country bumpkins. They wear boots nowadays, and they are not really peasants. Not in this country, anyway.
Don’t wear these shoes. Find the extra $100 for better ones.

Post: #12

Athletic shoes are to be worn only during active participation in athletic events.

Post: #13

Good overview. +1 from me.

Post: #14

^compliments your suit thread quite well

Post: #15

Monkstraps are a personal favourite of mine. Can be dressed up with a suit, or dressed down with dark jeans. Super versatile and probably one of the top 3 shoes I'd recommend getting.

Post: #16

People need to put more effort into their shoe selection. A good pair of shoes goes a long way. +1 from me. Excellent resource.

(09-20-2016 11:29 PM)CaptainChardonnay Wrote:  ^compliments your suit thread quite well

I see a new thread coming - 'suits n' boots - feel and look your best. Head to toe'.

Post: #17

(09-21-2016 11:49 AM)WeekendCasanova Wrote:  I see a new thread coming - 'suits n' boots - feel and look your best. Head to toe'.

I am writing a guide on suit boots as we speak.

Post: #18

If you could write something up on winter shoes/boots that would be really helpful. I'm looking into making some quality investments but don't know where to begin.

Post: #19

Very good stuff. There are too many tragic shoes in this world.

Being a mountain man, I live in boots and trainers during the ski season but I have a 15 year old pair of church's Oxford caps in the wardrobe down here in the city. Perfect for formal occasions, opera, weddings, meetings.

You can tell the quality of a man by how the shoes he wears and the condition he keeps them in.

Post: #20

I would also say that Cole Haan makes a solid dress shoe at a lower price then the brands you listed.

Post: #21

Fantastic data sheet here. +1 from me.

I've just recently starting rebuilding my shoe collection. I have a solid pair of light-brown brogues and black boots, but nothing especially formal. Black oxfords are the next buy for sure.

Post: #22

I just stepped out to pick up some leather cleaner and conditioner at the shoe store and picked up a nice looking pair of oxfords (no cap)

Post: #23

^those look great. whats the brand?

Post: #24

Mercanti Fiorenti. Soles look fresh too with the emboss work. Pricetag of $140 but I just found these on clearance at a shoe warehouse for $80 and change.

Post: #25

That is a helluva deal for a good looking shoe.

I just now learned of a new (to me) company, Meermin. They are a Spanish company out of Mallorca, either owned by Carmina or owners have familial relations, I don't know. The shoes are actually made in China, which brings down costs and prices.

The general consensus of the reviewers is "Meermin a damn good deal for your money, perhaps the best out there."