Post: #301

The Art of Manliness podcast just had an episode on style with an interview with Aaron Marino. Good episode, some useful pointers. Recommended.

Post: #302

(10-09-2016 01:26 PM)El_Gostro Wrote:  Darian frey, DRE & Irenicus

Thanks for the input!
I just read your replies and quick search confirmed both that it's an aliexpress product AND a FB sponsored ad scam.

Pity that, but I will take the advice at heart and search for a good 2nd hand coat. As CDSG pointed out, it's better to have it than not and yes, charcoal gray and dark navy are colors I find good.
Thanks again for saving me from a shoddy deal!

Ludlow Topcoat, not cheap but will last,

https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/oute...pcoats.jsp

Post: #303

where to buy said threats for a good price? Im not one that likes to overspend on clothes, usually going through far too many of them ,nowadays shifting more to quality vs quantity. im thinking of looking into ebay vs retail

Post: #304

Which is the most versatile color? Having a hard time deciding.





Henri Lloyd Forest Boots

Post: #305

Personally I'd go with the Brown suede and swap the laces out for dark brown leather or waxed cotton.

Post: #306

Brown is probably just about the most versatile color of shoe you can own besides black.

Post: #307

Top pair looks a lot better to me, cleaner laces and better contrast between the uppers and sole. Rugged, but not as workboot-ish as the bottom pair.

Post: #308

Do you think that jackets, blazers, coats etc are a requirement to dressing to stand out? Some of the examples in this thread look top class but I dislike layers because they hide my physique and I get warm easily. Is there a good way to add that extra style without layers?

Post: #309

You could get creative with patterned shirts,I guess. Toy with the lenght of sleeves, roll them up only a bit.
Something like Brazalets, wristbands or a pendant can compliment a shirt or top too.
I would say a vest can do wonders too but then it still is another layer

Post: #310

(10-17-2016 01:44 AM)Adrenaline Wrote:  Do you think that jackets, blazers, coats etc are a requirement to dressing to stand out? Some of the examples in this thread look top class but I dislike layers because they hide my physique and I get warm easily. Is there a good way to add that extra style without layers?

Absolutely not, shit, most places you simply cant layer throughout the year because of climate.

In the warmer weather chodes still dress like chodes, its no different from fall/winter, even easier actually if your in great shape because you can dress minimally and let your physique do the work (including tattoos if you have them).

Fit is half the battle, buy classic pieces that fit, don't make basic mistakes like wearing white socks, add classy accessories (watch, jewelry, hat, sunglasses) in moderation if you like, that's all you need to stand out.

Someone a few pages back posted some pictures of outfits that incorporate a basic T-shirt, that's really all you need, most guys aren't even fashion conscience enough to figure that out.

Post: #311

(10-17-2016 01:44 AM)Adrenaline Wrote:  Do you think that jackets, blazers, coats etc are a requirement to dressing to stand out? Some of the examples in this thread look top class but I dislike layers because they hide my physique and I get warm easily. Is there a good way to add that extra style without layers?

No for the first question. You don't need layering if you are muscular enough; layering is for non-Schwarzeneggers. Muscle guys don't get the same advantage from suits as regular dudes do. Just show off your "form" with single layer clothing.

If your physique is good enough, you don't need much style at all.

Post: #312

I wouldn't say I'm a Schwarzenegger type, otherwise you would still be able to see it though layers anyway. More of a model or athlete build at 6'0, 85kg. Regardless, it still shows in muscle tops and T-shirts rather than layers where I look like any other regular guy.

What's wrong with white socks? unless you're wearing them with black shoes of course.

Post: #313

It's not that can't see the build, it's that it doesn't look good; you'll never see a male suit model that is muscled up.



I don't understand why you layering would make you look like any other guy; if you are 6'0'' with a model build, the layering will make you look even more like a model. Most guys are slobs who don't layer, the layering will add to the attraction effect, if done correctly.

Though layering is for the cold, if it is warm enough, just wear a long-sleeve Gitman Vintage shirt and roll the sleeves up, the slim cut will allow your build to show off and your arms as well. Roll down the sleeves when it cools down at night or to look slightly more formal.

Post: #314

Generally very muscular guys do not look good in suits, scrambled is correct. They do not hang well on a muscular frame. A good suit creates elegant lines, with contrast between tightness and hang. Muscles cause suits to bulk in places they shouldn't bulk, and generally require too much fabric. I don't recall ever having seen a muscular guy look good in a suit - it always looks like a sack.

Post: #315

The Rock looks pretty good and he's yuge.

Post: #316

(10-18-2016 11:15 AM)H1N1 Wrote:  Generally very muscular guys do not look good in suits, scrambled is correct. They do not hang well on a muscular frame. A good suit creates elegant lines, with contrast between tightness and hang. Muscles cause suits to bulk in places they shouldn't bulk, and generally require too much fabric. I don't recall ever having seen a muscular guy look good in a suit - it always looks like a sack.

I disagree.

A good tailor can make ANY MAN look good in a suit. Hell, even a good cut, off the rack suit can make any man look good.

Google rugby players in their travel suits. The biggest guys out there, and they look dope.

Plenty of things that can help trim a suit for a larger guy, don't let this stand in your way of wanting to wear a suit.

Post: #317

^The trick is to find a good tailor

Post: #318

(10-18-2016 11:15 AM)H1N1 Wrote:  Generally very muscular guys do not look good in suits, scrambled is correct. They do not hang well on a muscular frame. A good suit creates elegant lines, with contrast between tightness and hang. Muscles cause suits to bulk in places they shouldn't bulk, and generally require too much fabric. I don't recall ever having seen a muscular guy look good in a suit - it always looks like a sack.

In an OFT suit, usually no. Bigger sizes on OTR suits are usually meant for fatter people, not muscular people. That is why Arnie looks like a fatso when suited up.

The best solution is bespoke in that case.

Post: #319

^ These are all heavily shopped publicity photos (and CM fights at featherweight or something, he's a little fella). I'm also making a relative point. A suit may make a muscular guy look more polished than he otherwise might, but if you stick a large man in an expensive suit next to an athletic man in an expensive suit, the difference is night and day.

If you look at non-shopped photos of rugby players, you can see very clearly that even good suits look bad on heavily muscled guys (especially when they insist on the fad of wearing brown shoes with blue suits).

Look at the disruption to the lines caused by the spare fabric in the trousers. This is caused by large, muscular thighs. The tailor has to cut the fabric to give some room for abnormally large thighs, and then somehow taper this in a way that doesn't look ridiculous down to the calves. It inevitably fails, as many of these show.

Look also at the lines around the upper arms and shoulders - it is very hard to get an immaculate fit. In order for the shoulders to be right, there is a lack of fabric in the arms, which makes it look like these guys are going to burst out of the suit at any moment. Same thing across the chest.

One secret of elegance, which is the ideal one strives for when wearing a suit, is obtained by looking very comfortable in formal attire. It is *impossible* to do this, because excessive muscles cause the fabric to bunch unnaturally, and to tighten to bursting point across certain key points. Alternatively, you are left with too much fabric to avoid this happening, and then the lines of the suit are not preserved because even good tailors can't properly account for the comic book proportions that very large muscles bring.

It is extremely prevalent at the moment to assume that simply because one wears a suit one automatically looks debonair. This is why you see the preponderance of people wearing a suit with no tie, loud suits with brown shoes, etc etc. They may think they look good, and so may many other people, when in fact they simply don't know any better.

Post: #320

Not really the pics you posted their proportions are whack, that's why they look goofy. Lapels, button stance, high rise or low rise pants all matter. Prime example is the last pic.

Post: #321

(10-19-2016 09:28 AM)H1N1 Wrote:  ^ These are all heavily shopped publicity photos (and CM fights at featherweight or something, he's a little fella). I'm also making a relative point. A suit may make a muscular guy look more polished than he otherwise might, but if you stick a large man in an expensive suit next to an athletic man in an expensive suit, the difference is night and day.

If you look at non-shopped photos of rugby players, you can see very clearly that even good suits look bad on heavily muscled guys (especially when they insist on the fad of wearing brown shoes with blue suits).

Look at the disruption to the lines caused by the spare fabric in the trousers. This is caused by large, muscular thighs. The tailor has to cut the fabric to give some room for abnormally large thighs, and then somehow taper this in a way that doesn't look ridiculous down to the calves. It inevitably fails, as many of these show.

Look also at the lines around the upper arms and shoulders - it is very hard to get an immaculate fit. In order for the shoulders to be right, there is a lack of fabric in the arms, which makes it look like these guys are going to burst out of the suit at any moment. Same thing across the chest.

One secret of elegance, which is the ideal one strives for when wearing a suit, is obtained by looking very comfortable in formal attire. It is *impossible* to do this, because excessive muscles cause the fabric to bunch unnaturally, and to tighten to bursting point across certain key points. Alternatively, you are left with too much fabric to avoid this happening, and then the lines of the suit are not preserved because even good tailors can't properly account for the comic book proportions that very large muscles bring.

It is extremely prevalent at the moment to assume that simply because one wears a suit one automatically looks debonair. This is why you see the preponderance of people wearing a suit with no tie, loud suits with brown shoes, etc etc. They may think they look good, and so may many other people, when in fact they simply don't know any better.

I would agree, none of those guys suits looked good. But the point I am trying to make is that it does not have to be the case.

Getting a suit is more work for muscular or odd proportional men, hence why models are the shape they are. Models have no surprises, unlike 95% of the general population.

And yes, wearing a suit is mostly about feeling good wearing it. If you are uncomfortable - both socially and physically - you are not going to look good anyways.

Post: #322

(10-19-2016 09:28 AM)H1N1 Wrote:  They may think they look good, and so may many other people, when in fact they simply don't know any better.

This particular sentence brings up something interesting:

Is "what looks good" defined by some sort of classic yard-stick definition and standard, or is it defined by the people around you?

If someone wears an ill-fitting or ugly-styled suit, is it a fashion faux-pas if everyone thinks it looks good and gets compliments?

For example, a lot of people here will trash on dudes wearing sneakers with a suit, but it's also "in" and a lot of people think it looks cool and attractive. Does that make a man wrong for rocking it? Hmmmmmm

Post: #323

(10-20-2016 11:53 AM)General Stalin Wrote:  

(10-19-2016 09:28 AM)H1N1 Wrote:  They may think they look good, and so may many other people, when in fact they simply don't know any better.

This particular sentence brings up something interesting:

Is "what looks good" defined by some sort of classic yard-stick definition and standard, or is it defined by the people around you?

If someone wears an ill-fitting or ugly-styled suit, is it a fashion faux-pas if everyone thinks it looks good and gets compliments?

For example, a lot of people here will trash on dudes wearing sneakers with a suit, but it's also "in" and a lot of people think it looks cool and attractive. Does that make a man wrong for rocking it? Hmmmmmm

Personally, I think fashion is a VERY different thing from elegance, and even style. It is possible to be extremely fashionable without necessarily being stylish, and especially without looking elegant. In fact the two may be inimicable to each other.

Now, of course not everyone aspires to look elegant, and that's their prerogative, but there is an objective standard which can be met or fallen short of when it comes to matters of formal dress. Anyone who wants to can obviously take a piece of formal clothing and wear it as they wish, and many people may indeed think it is cool or looks good - I am always amazed at what otherwise sensible people will do in the pursuit of fashion.

The proof, to an extent, that this standard exists, and that it is objective, would be to take the chap in the ill fitting suit and trainers, and stand him next to the man in the immaculate 3-piece from Gieves and Hawkes, or Huntsman etc, with black shoes shined to a military finish. It would be immediately apparent to any observer that the man wearing the suit properly looked *much better* than the guy who may look cooler or more fashionable. In my opinion, elegance, and an effortlessly chic appearance makes a far more compelling impression on 3rd parties than mere fashion could hope to.

Post: #324

^Elegance by far is the best quality to look for period when wearing any piece of clothing.

Post: #325

I just got a shirt altered and I think that asian woman made it worse. Now it's tight up in the shoulder area, like if I pull my elbows forward and up as if I were to adjust my collar or tie it feels like I'm going to rip the back of the shirt apart. I wanted her to just take the sides in so it wouldn't be so puffed out in my mid section and it looks like she did it by pulling the upper part of the backside in.