Post: #26

(06-21-2014 12:23 PM)sand Wrote:  The 501 is a great jean. It has been around for over a century and has been perfected over time. So there are two types of denim, sanfordized (pre shrunk) and unsandordized. Preshrunk Levi's are likely going to stretch 5% after buying it.

Buy a pair of 501 shrink to fits. Size up one in the waist to what you usually wear. Then put them in a tub with the hottest water possible. Put objects over them because they float. After 20 minutes take them out and hang dry them. (They will drop so do it over a tub) Then when they are moist and not wet wear them until they dry.

Basil, try this as well I think it's your best bet and a great way to start with raw denim.

I did exactly this with my 501s. I found a video on youtube explaining the process.

Post: #27

Hello, there

Thanks for your sharing of information.

Wondering what your take on these-- they're Ralph Lauren Denim & Supply (these are their "Slim
bootcut"). I'm assuming you'll think they're hyped/mediocre, but I have to say, I do like the fit and feel of them. And affordable price point at US$89).



Edit: I also have a pair of slim black jeans, also by RL Denim & Supply. IMO, I think they can be incorporated into an edgy overall style, and I've pulled wearing those

Post: #28

Also, considering you speak favorably of the Levi's 501, I'm wondering your take on the 513.

I compared measurements, and as far as I can tell, they're the same- except the 513 has a somewhat narrower leg opening, so the shoes stand out more, than with the 501. They come, as you know of course, in a variety of washes.

I have 5 pairs of 513's. The slim fit fits me great, and I get compliments on the "Icecap Denim", and the "Bedford Bronze" (looks dope when paired with a black peacoat).

Post: #29

Just to add to this discussion, I personally think low rise jeans on shorter guys looks ridiculous. It makes their legs look like little tree stumps (that along with bootcuts). Unfortunately, they seem to be all the rage in the last few years. Almost all Diesels are low rise. My only options are regular Levi's or 7's. Not sure if anyone else has the same opinion about low rises.

Post: #30

Cool, if thats the case, size down next time and after that awkward tight period it should loosen up. The raw n & f loosens up pretty nicely.

Post: #31

Sand, what do you think about jeans that have stretch fabric in them? As I mentioned in another denim thread, my fav jeans are a pair of Evan-X by David Bitton. They have 1-2% stretch fiber I think and it makes them very comfortable no matter how I'm standing or sitting.

Are there any other fashion brands with stretch fabric?

Post: #32

Speakeasy, generally I stay ways from stretch when I'm looking for indigo raw denim. I'll only look for it in slim black denim. This is for a few reasons:
1) Raw Denim stretches on it's own after it is broken in.
2) Denim isn't meant to be uncomfortable but I am more concerned with how rugged and durable denim is than how soft or stretchy it is. Again denim is masculine, and initially wasn't worn by women because it was workwear and raw high denim is too stiff to mold around a woman's curves and so they started making stretch denim (with 3-10%) elastane. I personally don't consider women's jeans to be denim but leggings (I am very thankful for this, it would be very blocky if women wore real denim).

Again this is only my personal opinion. There is only one brand that makes selvedge denim with stretch and that is a special line that Naked and Famous makes. Other than that I don't know of any other selvedge brands.

My black pair of denim has stretch but those (in my mind) are fashion house jeans and not denim. Acne makes great stretch denim, non of their raw but their colored denim. Really cool Stuff.

Post: #33

Passione send me a PM if you want personal style questions. I am trying to keep this a general knowledge thread rather than a personal WAYWT thread.

Also, my opinion doesn't matter. If you like something and feel good wearing it, than that is all that matters. I am just trying to represent the ideas of a school of thought that I belong to and help any who may be interested in going down that path.

Post: #34

What do you think about my go-to outfit when I hit the club? Is this enough denim or should I add more?

Post: #35

Here's a page that lists the best places in NYC to buy quality denim.

http://www.rawrdenim.com/2013/04/top-sho...raw-denim/

Post: #36

Hey Sand - thanks for dropping all this great denim info man.

What's your opinion of adriano goldschmied jeans? I have a pair of their matchbox style, and i love em. It's a great dark blue, perfect slim leg for my body, and the little bit of stretch makes them so damn wearable. Also what do you think about J-Brand?

My go-to every day wear used to be levi's 514 in stretch black - the only problem with them is that once you wash them they lose their color and look like shit. So i buy a new pair about every 5-6 months and sell the old one at a resale store for 10 bucks. I buy em on sale at macys and theyre like 42 bucks out the door.

I need to buy some new jeans lately and i kinda dig the new ralph lauren denim and supply line too - someone beat me to it and brought it up already.

Post: #37

I think Parke New York sells raw selvedge denim with stretch fabric. I too have a pair of stretch denim and like them - they let you have a sleek fit without choking your balls off. Unfortunately, there isn't much outside of Naked and Famous' weird guy.

Guys have an aversion to stretch fabric in jeans but I think it's a great feature if you're nkt going for a loose fit.

I just bought the Uniqlo raw selvedge in a couple sizes, I'll see how those are. $50.

My ideal jeans would be raw selvedge, slim tapered, 1-3% stretch, and probably unsanforized. Indigo wash, mid rise.

Post: #38

I'm glad for this thread. This whole denim culture/hobby is overwhelming for me and I don't have time to become an expert on it, but I need some good long lasting awesome looking jeans. I end up buying regular Levi's (usually 505's) but I want to step into higher quality. I want jeans that are going to NOT FADE. I am tired of buying jeans, usually regular Levi's, and they fade and look like crap. I also like jeans that have that distressed look with the whiskers etc. I know I can make those myself by buying raw denim etc. I'm interested in that, but I also am interested in fashion jeans, so you should make a thread for that, like you suggested in your first post.

Post: #39

What are your recommendations on laundering denim? Never wash, regularly wash, or sometimes wash? And if wash, how?

Post: #40

So I always and only buy levi's the regular retail ones.

My go to pair is the 511 slim fit. How should I go about shrinking them? And is the shrink permanent or will it loosen back up to its original shape?

How would you go about preserving the color of jeans, for example the navy blue jeans to avoid making them a light blue colored. Same question with the black colored jeans.

Thanks

Post: #41

(06-25-2014 08:48 AM)Inspired Wrote:  I'm glad for this thread. This whole denim culture/hobby is overwhelming for me and I don't have time to become an expert on it, but I need some good long lasting awesome looking jeans. I end up buying regular Levi's (usually 505's) but I want to step into higher quality. I want jeans that are going to NOT FADE. I am tired of buying jeans, usually regular Levi's, and they fade and look like crap. I also like jeans that have that distressed look with the whiskers etc. I know I can make those myself by buying raw denim etc. I'm interested in that, but I also am interested in fashion jeans, so you should make a thread for that, like you suggested in your first post.

I think fading comes from washing. Don't wash, don't fade.

It's not intentional, but I guess I never wash my jeans. They don't smell and they don't fade much, except around a few active or tight areas, principally the ass and crotch in my case. The crotch blows out way before my jeans have a chance to fade.

Also the site rawrdenim.com is a terrific repository of denim knowledge.

Post: #42

(06-24-2014 07:24 PM)scorpion Wrote:  What do you think about my go-to outfit when I hit the club? Is this enough denim or should I add more?

eh, i think by exposing your chest and biceps you would add an extra degree of manliness that will get the panties wet in no time

Post: #43

(06-24-2014 07:24 PM)scorpion Wrote:  What do you think about my go-to outfit when I hit the club? Is this enough denim or should I add more?

You need a denim pocket square

Post: #44

Hey sand, how to know if a pair of raw denims are good or not? I picked up a pair here in Bangkok, from a brand and store called Nama Denim. They were about $100 and I've been wearing them for four month now without a wash. They've started to form after my legs and I got some honeycombs and whiskers. The seller was very enthusiastic and did know a lot about what he was selling.

Apparently the brand is new, less than a year since they opened their store here in Bangkok. They import the textile from Japan and make them in Thailand and when I was speaking to him they were thinking about opening up a store in Berlin. If you want I could upload some photos. I think I'll wait a little longer than six months before first wash, maybe nine months or a year. This is my first pair of raw denims.

Post: #45

I did a fair amount of research, and ended up getting the cheapest raw unsanforized denim I could find - a Uniqlo slim selvedge, for $50. I like the color and finish, and after a soak, the fit is improving. The silhouette is great and slim. The main thing I'd change about is the rise - it's a low-rise, and the straight fit selvedge from Uniqlo is almost as low. That said, I'm not aware of any other slim fit options in this price range. I'd consider getting these jeans tapered at the knee and below by a tailor in the future.



I spoke to a Uniqlo rep briefly and she said the denim is unsanforized - aside from the Levi 501s STF, I've seen no unsanforized denim below $100.

Sand, are you aware of any unsanforized slim fit denims for under $100? You mentioned finding the LVCs for $100 or less - that is a pretty steep discount. How do you find those? The LVC 1955 looks promising, might pick it up if the price is right.

Post: #46

(06-27-2014 01:51 PM)Satoshi Wrote:  Hey sand, how to know if a pair of raw denims are good or not? I picked up a pair here in Bangkok, from a brand and store called Nama Denim. They were about $100 and I've been wearing them for four month now without a wash. They've started to form after my legs and I got some honeycombs and whiskers. The seller was very enthusiastic and did know a lot about what he was selling.

Apparently the brand is new, less than a year since they opened their store here in Bangkok. They import the textile from Japan and make them in Thailand and when I was speaking to him they were thinking about opening up a store in Berlin. If you want I could upload some photos. I think I'll wait a little longer than six months before first wash, maybe nine months or a year. This is my first pair of raw denims.

please upload some, i used to be a denim freak a few years ago. My goto brand was nudie, but sadly they have become to popular in scandinavia.

They still look good though

Post: #47

(06-29-2014 05:50 PM)pants Wrote:  

(06-27-2014 01:51 PM)Satoshi Wrote:  Hey sand, how to know if a pair of raw denims are good or not? I picked up a pair here in Bangkok, from a brand and store called Nama Denim. They were about $100 and I've been wearing them for four month now without a wash. They've started to form after my legs and I got some honeycombs and whiskers. The seller was very enthusiastic and did know a lot about what he was selling.

Apparently the brand is new, less than a year since they opened their store here in Bangkok. They import the textile from Japan and make them in Thailand and when I was speaking to him they were thinking about opening up a store in Berlin. If you want I could upload some photos. I think I'll wait a little longer than six months before first wash, maybe nine months or a year. This is my first pair of raw denims.

please upload some, i used to be a denim freak a few years ago. My goto brand was nudie, but sadly they have become to popular in scandinavia.

They still look good though

Check this out

Post: #48

Whenever I see an in depth article on denim I can't help but be reminded of
Our brains have just one scale and we resize our experiences to fit.

That said, I'm looking forward to buying some raw denim now.

Post: #49

(07-06-2014 11:37 AM)LaserBear Wrote:  Whenever I see an in depth article on denim I can't help but be reminded of
Our brains have just one scale and we resize our experiences to fit.

That said, I'm looking forward to buying some raw denim now.

It's true. It's all relative. That's why women "roll out" to the club and bring a fat friend along. To make themselves look better in comparison. The fat girl sets the lower limit thereby lowering the overall average and shifting the curve to the left ....making 6's appear as 9's

We're all just pussy snobs here

Post: #50

Good thread.

I'm searching for a pair of raw denim under 100 dollars. From what I've heard, the best option is Unbranded.

Does anyone have any experience with those? How do they compare to Uniqlos?