Post: #1

Seen a few mentions on the forum about taking motorcycle tours in Vietnam but not any threads about it, so thought I would break down my experiences of riding Hanoi to Saigon on a 100cc scooter earlier this year.

I was hanging out in a bar in Beijing the night before my flight to Hanoi at the start of a six week SE Asia trip when another traveler mentioned they were were heading there and planned to ride a motorbike from Hanoi to Saigon. I had never ridden a motorbike before, but was planning on getting one in China when I got back from my trip, and it seemed like the perfect thing to do on my travels.

I didn’t know that Top Gear had recently done an episode where they did this trip, it turns out a lot of people are doing this journey now.

For someone who has scant knowledge of how motorbikes work (like myself), Vietnam is a great place to do a tour like this. The country is densely populated and as an educated guess 90% of its logistics is based on motorbikes, so you can find parts and mechanics everywhere.


Highlights

Seeing Vietnam as the Vietnamese see it, on two wheels. Experiencing the countryside. Doing what you want and going where you want everyday. Getting invited to eat food with villagers on numerous occasions. Spending a night with teachers in a rural school. Riding through jungle covered karst mountains, barely seeing another vehicle all day. Getting shown how to kick start by an eight year old boy. Riding through miles and miles of villages built in traditional architecture with Chinese graveyards scattered throughout. Stopping for a smoke outside a rural school and the whole place runs out to see you and shout hello. Getting lost or running out of snacks or low on fuel and the relief felt at finding your way/supplies again. Getting to your destination after hours and hours on the road. Seeing the mugs on the tour buses and feeling a smug sense of self satisfaction. Finally arriving in Saigon.

I think I’ve forgotten more of the great things than I can remember. Whole trip was such a great experience, just wish I had been able to spend more time doing it.


Recommended bikes

I would recommend getting a Honda, as you can find spare parts anywhere. One day I went over a bridge to fast, when I came down I messed up the sprockets. I pushed the bike to the nearest house, the people there helped me get to the nearest mechanic (around 1km away), an hour later I had a new set on and ready to go, for around $12.

I would not buy a Minsk as the Vietnamese don’t seem to use them anymore, and the parts are hard to come by. Met one guy who gave up half way through the route because his bike kept breaking down and he couldn’t find spares.

Real bikes (as opposed to Chinese clones) are easier to sell. Motorbikes are easier to sell than scooters. More powerful bikes are easier to sell than less powerful. The biggest you will be riding is 125cc anyway.


Buying your bike

I bought mine from The New Hanoian's classified section. Craigslist is also an option, or there are a number of dealers around town. Your hotel can help you find these, but expect to pay over the odds. You can also go to the backpacker areas to find people selling their bikes on the street. When I searched on Google I found a company that sells in Hanoi and will buy back from you in Saigon, don’t know anyone who has used this (or if they still operate), but if so would be good for ease of use.


Accessories

Good helmets are more or less impossible to find. Bring one with you if you plan to do this trip. The cap like helmets that are popular in ‘nam are more or less useless. A guy I met claimed to have seen a women who had face planted on the road, her brains where everywhere, the cap helmet was on the ground next to her intact.
Buy good waterproofs. I had trouble finding these in Hanoi but other people didn’t. Ask in a hostel if you have trouble. The weather in Vietnam is very changeable, and being soaking wet on the road miles from the nearest hotel is not a fun position to be in. I only got properly wet one day fortunately.
Sun cream. You will not notice you are getting burnt as you are riding and it will hurt later.
A bike lock is a good option, but every hotel I stayed in bar one allowed you to take the bikes inside at night.


Time frame

I would recommend three weeks as a minimum for the whole trip. I did it in 16 days with 4 days off and it was way to fast. I didn’t have time to check out the places I was in and party at full capacity as I was real tired from all the riding. A month would be a good length of time to spend doing it.


Budget

One great thing about this trip is that is can be done on the cheap if you have no major problems/breakdowns (of course you should budget for this). I was spending $20-$25 per day when I was just driving and not partying. Hotels in Vietnam are really cheap, usually around $7 a night outside of the cities. Even in the lager, more touristy cities they are not to expensive. Right in the centre of Saigon I got a nicely decorated/furnished pad with air con for $15/night.


Recommended routes

Avoid Highway 1 as much as you can. The traffic is crazy, the dust chokes up your lungs, and you will be to focused on not getting killed to enjoy the ride.

Ho Chi Minh Highway is where is at for most of the route. As the name suggests it follows roughly the route of the Ho Chi Minh trail (although much of that was in Laos – accounting for why that country is the most bombed in history) which the Viet Cong used to smuggle supplies down the guerrilla fighters in the south. The road is pristine, your rocking though jungle covered mountains and villages that rarely see Vietemese from out of the area, let alone foreigners. My best times in Vietnam where had in these places.

Be careful that although a road might be marked as a highway on the map, it may actually be a dirt road in places. Road infrastructure is underdeveloped in Vietnam, especially in the interior. If its been raining this can be a nightmare. I found myself on steep dirt tracks after a downpour surrounded by overloaded logging trucks, that was a pretty hair raising ride.


Safety

Its big boy rules, larger vehicles will come onto your side of the road and its up to you to get out the way. Highway 1 is a nightmare and to be avoided if possible, I had a couple of near misses on it. The less busy roads are pretty safe with regards to other vehicles, just watch out for animals on the road. I never felt danger regarding other people, but normal travel rules apply.


Starting in Hanoi or Saigon?

I am glad I started in Hanoi. I found I enjoyed the things the places I visited more and more as I went South. As I went in winter is was great how the weather got better and better. Also, between Hanoi and Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park there wasn’t anything I felt was unmissable, and you pretty much have to take Highway 1 for a lot of it. it would be a shame to have the last 300km or so of your trip being below par.


If anyone has questions about parts of the trip ask away. I wasn't gaming and spent so little time in the different cities I went to I can't really give solid answers about those areas.

Post: #2

how hot and interested were the [various kinds] of chicks?
maybe some would like to leave rural vietnam?

Post: #3

For anyone who missed the episode, Top Gear did this trip by bike a few years ago. Here is an edited version of the show ( full episode available on BBC I-player I believe ). Well worth a watch if you have not seen it.

Post: #4

Nice!

Is a 125cc the biggest you can get there? I thought I heard 250cc......

I have had this on my list of rides since I spent a month in Thailand on a Honda CR250. I would like to be able to do Vietnam on a similar bike if possible, it really tore up the slick, sticky mountain dirt/mud roads.

Is it possible to take a bike overland into Vietnam? I have never been to Laos and wouldnt mind hitting that on the same bike trip.

Post: #5

Yeah thats the one Vortuta, thanks for sharing, I've not actually watched yet so going to do now and get all nostalgic. EDIT - Can confirm that the road at 3.30 on the vid is indeed "one of the best coast roads in the world." Completely stunning. The bit I mentioned with the Chinese graveyards came just before it, was one of the best days of my life that day. If anyone does the trip I'll tell you exactly how to get there.

iknowexactly - hot, if you like the fresh from the farm vibe. Surprisingly good teeth in rural area (rural teeth is China are often terrible). No idea if they would be interested in leaving the countryside, wasn't assessing but I didn't feel like anyone coming onto me, might be language barrier/shyness though.

One thing I didn't mention was how on the whole I found people far more genuine in the countryside than in the cities. In the urban areas I constantly had to think if someone was being nice to me just to sell something/rip me off. People were really generous in the countryside, often even when I tried to pay for stuff they didn't want to take it.

Post: #6

Great data sheet.

I went all over Laos and Thailand on a little twist and go scooter back in 2001, loved every minute of it. A Vietnam motorbike ride is definitely something I would consider doing. What was the women situation like out in the smaller out of the way places?

Post: #7

First thing that came to mind was the Top Gear special too! Nice!

Post: #8

(07-04-2013 10:39 AM)Laner Wrote:  Nice!

Is a 125cc the biggest you can get there? I thought I heard 250cc......

I have had this on my list of rides since I spent a month in Thailand on a Honda CR250. I would like to be able to do Vietnam on a similar bike if possible, it really tore up the slick, sticky mountain dirt/mud roads.

Is it possible to take a bike overland into Vietnam? I have never been to Laos and wouldnt mind hitting that on the same bike trip.

Nice, you got a write up of your Thailand trip anywhere? Thinking about doing something along those lines next year. I'm really sold on this whole motorbike tip.

125cc is the biggest you can get without being part of a "club", joining one allows you 250cc. Not sure how you go about joining one, or how easy it would be to do as a foreigner. That and your second question reminds me of two things I forgot.


Legality

Technically you will be riding illegally, as you need to be in Vietnam a number of months before getting a local license (I've forgotten the exact details of this). In practice this isn't a problem. I didn't hear of anyone getting tapped up for bribes.

The police seem to be pretty chilled out with regards to foreigners. They are often by the side of the road doing speed checks, they have quite distinctive uniforms so you can slow down when you see them. I never quite figured out exactly what the speed limit was on the highways, and my speedometer was broken most of the trip. No problems whatsoever.


Crossing borders

I tried to take my bike into Laos, but was told no way (even with a bribe implied). I think this is a problem on the Laos side, not Vietnam. I do know people have done it though. Maybe starting in Laos and crossing to 'nam would be best. Or find a truck and pay the driver to take it and you over (not sure what customs are like though).

My friend took his bike into Cambodia with no problems.

I'm not sure about going into Vietnam from other countries. I think the different border crossings have different interpretations of the rules and/or are easier to bribe.

Post: #9

(07-04-2013 10:49 AM)Vorkuta Wrote:  Great data sheet.

I went all over Laos and Thailand on a little twist and go scooter back in 2001, loved every minute of it. A Vietnam motorbike ride is definitely something I would consider doing. What was the women situation like out in the smaller out of the way places?

Cheers.

I wasn't really doing anything other than ride and rest in the out of the way places. This was the problem with trying to do it in such a small time frame and the only thing I regret. Typically I'd ride from around 9.30 to 17.00 (with a lot of breaks), eat food and drink a beer or two, then crash. Some of the towns such as Vinh might be pretty good for girls, migrants in from the surrounding countryside, no many dickhead backbackers (got nothing against them in principle, but there are some proper tools amongst them) ruining the exotic foreigner vibe. The real small places would be slightly dangerous to game I would imagine, I can't see the local men taking to kindly to it, its a very conservative country at heart.

Post: #10

I did a much shorter motorbike trip but loved it. I took the overnight train from Hanoi north to Lao Cai right next to the border with China. Then got a mini bus to Sapa. There I rented a motorbike and did 7 days driving all around the mountains and visiting tiny mountain villages.

On about my 3rd day I saw this dirt road leading up a mountain and thought I would check it out, after about 30 minutes I am way up the mountain and I reach a small village of about 20 huts. Everyone is coming out to look at me and there is a big commotion, it was like the whole village stopped everything to come check me out.

Luckily one guy about 20 years old speaks english and we have a chat for a while. Next thing I know I am getting a tour of the village and he invites me to stay with his family for the night. I thought what the hell this should be interesting.

They feed me some rice and chicken for dinner and then he takes me to this really old guys hut and ask if i want to smoke the pipe with him. I asked what he was smoking and it was opium. I had never smoked opium before and thought what the hell. So there I am laying on the wood floor of a tiny hut in a mountain village in the norther most part of Vietnam smoking opium with this guy who looked 80+ years old. It was a surreal experience for sure.

Turns out I passed out about 45 minutes after we smoked and I just slept right there on the wood floor in the old guys hut until I woke up the next morning. It took me a good 3 or 4 minutes to figure out where I was and what was going on, I was so confused.

After I got my thoughts together and figured out what was going on I got up and found my english speaking buddy and ate some pho for breakfast with him and then he announced to the village I was leaving and about 30 people all came out to wave good bye.

And that is why I travel.

Post: #11

Great report. A +1 from me.

I did something similar in 2009. It was on a motorcycle and I had a guide named Eddy Murphy haha.

Nowadays I would do a tour like that by myself but having a guide also has it advantages. The guy really knew the great spots.

Post: #12

Awesome stuff CD! Doing a bike tour of Vietnam's country side is also very high on my list of things to do. Did you do this tour on your own or with other people/group? How much did you pay for the bike? Was it easy as someone with no prior biking experience to get the hang of things?
I'm very much interested in doing something similar when I get there!

What a great story Direct Danger! That's what makes traveling truly magical at times, specially in those off the beaten paths! Awesome!

Neil, write more about your experience about your biking tour with Eddy Murphy!

Cheers!

Post: #13

Quote:Nice, you got a write up of your Thailand trip anywhere? Thinking about doing something along those lines next year. I'm really sold on this whole motorbike tip.

I have some stuff written down in an old journal that I kept. I will dig it up, there is sure to be some good memories in there!

"It was 1999 and I was only 19. I just landed in Thailand after building roads in the Canadian Rockies for the last six months......"

Damn I love a good adventure.

Post: #14

Dammit, I got bogged down in Vietnam and couldn't do this. I can't read it now but will come back

Post: #15

(07-04-2013 02:59 PM)Laner Wrote:  

Quote:Nice, you got a write up of your Thailand trip anywhere? Thinking about doing something along those lines next year. I'm really sold on this whole motorbike tip.

I have some stuff written down in an old journal that I kept. I will dig it up, there is sure to be some good memories in there!

"It was 1999 and I was only 19. I just landed in Thailand after building roads in the Canadian Rockies for the last six months......"

Damn I love a good adventure.

I journal like this would be awesome to keep so you can go back and read it when you are old. I've already forgotten so much of the stuff that has happened in my life, by the time I am an old man it will be just faint memories, if I remember much of it at all.

Post: #16

(07-04-2013 12:28 PM)Neil Skywalker Wrote:  Nowadays I would do a tour like that by myself but having a guide also has it advantages. The guy really knew the great spots.

Yeah for sure. Its great riding by yourself as you get to be totally in charge and discover things by accident, but its also nice to see stuff you might not have seen otherwise. Riding on your own gets real tiring mentally. On the few days I rode with other people I had no interest in leading, I just wanted to give my brain a rest and enjoy the ride.

(07-04-2013 12:06 PM)DirectDanger Wrote:  I did a much shorter motorbike trip but loved it. I took the overnight train from Hanoi north to Lao Cai right next to the border with China. Then got a mini bus to Sapa. There I rented a motorbike and did 7 days driving all around the mountains and visiting tiny mountain villages.

On about my 3rd day I saw this dirt road leading up a mountain and thought I would check it out, after about 30 minutes I am way up the mountain and I reach a small village of about 20 huts. Everyone is coming out to look at me and there is a big commotion, it was like the whole village stopped everything to come check me out.

.....

Turns out I passed out about 45 minutes after we smoked and I just slept right there on the wood floor in the old guys hut until I woke up the next morning. It took me a good 3 or 4 minutes to figure out where I was and what was going on, I was so confused.
....
And that is why I travel.

Great story! Those kind of adventures are what its all about.

I didn't make it up to Sapa due to time constraints, but want to head back to ride there and the rest of the North West Loop.

(07-04-2013 02:59 PM)Laner Wrote:  I have some stuff written down in an old journal that I kept. I will dig it up, there is sure to be some good memories in there!

"It was 1999 and I was only 19. I just landed in Thailand after building roads in the Canadian Rockies for the last six months......"

(07-04-2013 10:44 PM)RioNomad Wrote:  I journal like this would be awesome to keep so you can go back and read it when you are old. I've already forgotten so much of the stuff that has happened in my life, by the time I am an old man it will be just faint memories, if I remember much of it at all.

Yeah I wish I didn't keep flaking out my journals. A lot of funny stories have been lost to the haze of time and booze.

(07-04-2013 01:29 PM)Vacancier Permanent Wrote:  Awesome stuff CD! Doing a bike tour of Vietnam's country side is also very high on my list of things to do. Did you do this tour on your own or with other people/group? How much did you pay for the bike? Was it easy as someone with no prior biking experience to get the hang of things?
I'm very much interested in doing something similar when I get there!

Do it VP! Fantastic experience and only expensive time wise.

I rode by myself for most of the trip except for a couple of days where I rode with with people I'd met on the way. Made some solid friendships by the time I hit Saigon and ended up traveling with a group I met for another two weeks.

I had no prior biking experience, but had lived in Asia about six months so was more used to how the traffic works here. It took a few days to get into it. Initially in Hanoi it was pretty scary, I went to visit someone on the outskirts of the city the first night I had the bike, on the way back I took a wrong turn and ended up 15km outside the city on the motorway going the wrong direction! I was considering paying someone to guide me out the city when I set off on the trip but didn't in the end. I would recommend a scooter as they are semi automatic and its one less thing to worry about when your getting the hang of things.


Bike costs (ball park for second hand)

I paid $270 for my Chinese clone scooter, the "Handsome Dream" (Honda Dream). I overpaid a lot, in the end I sold it for $230, even there I got lucky I think. Probably worth around $200. Real scooters go for around $250. A bike like the Honda Win (good choice) were selling for around $300.

Post: #17

(07-04-2013 10:44 PM)RioNomad Wrote:  

(07-04-2013 02:59 PM)Laner Wrote:  

Quote:Nice, you got a write up of your Thailand trip anywhere? Thinking about doing something along those lines next year. I'm really sold on this whole motorbike tip.

I have some stuff written down in an old journal that I kept. I will dig it up, there is sure to be some good memories in there!

"It was 1999 and I was only 19. I just landed in Thailand after building roads in the Canadian Rockies for the last six months......"

Damn I love a good adventure.

I journal like this would be awesome to keep so you can go back and read it when you are old. I've already forgotten so much of the stuff that has happened in my life, by the time I am an old man it will be just faint memories, if I remember much of it at all.

I always wish I'd taken more videos. Last year for example, nearly a year in SE Asia and all I have is a few nightlife pics and pics of the traffic at the interesection, haha. So many good times and memories, but I know in a few years I'm going to wish I'd recorded more. When you're living somewhere and enjoying it, you're just not in that "capture the moment" mode. I got more pics from the sum of my short 5-day visa runs than from the months I lived in an amazing exotic city.

The trouble is, when you're in the moment enjoying things you never feel like taking a picture or video. Ideally, you need a cameraman on call, lol.

Post: #18

(07-05-2013 04:17 AM)RichieP Wrote:  The trouble is, when you're in the moment enjoying things you never feel like taking a picture or video. Ideally, you need a cameraman on call, lol.

+1 Only women automatically think 'photo' or 'Facebook' when they are having a good time.

Does anyone have the latest info on China in regards to motorcycling? China by bike would be an incredible adventure. However foreigners were never allowed to ride in the country without paying a stupid amount of cash and having an escort with you at all times. When I lived there and had my foreign expert certificate I was allowed to ride a scooter in my city but was not allowed out of it. Has anyone considered ways around this or even done it?

Post: #19

Sounds like you had a great time, brings back memories of my motorcycle trip through Mexico back in 2000. I think once you leave the big cities and head out to the countryside[/align] and experience the smaller towns, this is where you really get a feel of how amazing a country is, tasting the food, talking with the locals, banging the local women. Incredible adventures!

Post: #20

This blog details the adventures of two friends who did 30,000km round China on motorbikes. I've been riding a bit recently in China, once I get back and sort out my license and papers I'll do a write up.

Post: #21

(07-04-2013 12:06 PM)DirectDanger Wrote:  I did a much shorter motorbike trip but loved it. I took the overnight train from Hanoi north to Lao Cai right next to the border with China. Then got a mini bus to Sapa. There I rented a motorbike and did 7 days driving all around the mountains and visiting tiny mountain villages.

On about my 3rd day I saw this dirt road leading up a mountain and thought I would check it out, after about 30 minutes I am way up the mountain and I reach a small village of about 20 huts. Everyone is coming out to look at me and there is a big commotion, it was like the whole village stopped everything to come check me out.

Luckily one guy about 20 years old speaks english and we have a chat for a while. Next thing I know I am getting a tour of the village and he invites me to stay with his family for the night. I thought what the hell this should be interesting.

They feed me some rice and chicken for dinner and then he takes me to this really old guys hut and ask if i want to smoke the pipe with him. I asked what he was smoking and it was opium. I had never smoked opium before and thought what the hell. So there I am laying on the wood floor of a tiny hut in a mountain village in the norther most part of Vietnam smoking opium with this guy who looked 80+ years old. It was a surreal experience for sure.

Turns out I passed out about 45 minutes after we smoked and I just slept right there on the wood floor in the old guys hut until I woke up the next morning. It took me a good 3 or 4 minutes to figure out where I was and what was going on, I was so confused.

After I got my thoughts together and figured out what was going on I got up and found my english speaking buddy and ate some pho for breakfast with him and then he announced to the village I was leaving and about 30 people all came out to wave good bye.

And that is why I travel.

What a great travel story. Also, thanks to the OP for a solid datasheet. I'm hoping to do this exact trip this spring.

This is an excellent write up on a Hanoi-Da Nang-HCMC motorbike trip: https://medium.com/gone/three-weeks-a-mo....r4w3oq728