Post: #1

Not sure if we have a thread about Necktie (tie) style. Can someone please drop some knowledge on the following

1) What fabricl should a tie be?
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, etc
Summer, Winter
Should the occasion match the material?


2) Tie Knots
What type of knots to go with?
What style goes with what age range?
What knot goes with what type of collar?



3) Tie Width
Traditional, Narrow, skinny etc
What width goes with what occasion, style, collar spread?


4) Tie Length


5) Tie Design
Solid, Stripes, Dots, Check, etc
What should one wear wearing a solid shirt vs wearing a strip shirt, etc?


6) Tie Color
Light, Dark, etc
What color goes with what?


7) Tie Bar
When to wear one, design, etc


8) Misc info about tie style

Post: #2

I guess I do the normal cross knot and have various fabrics, mostly silk. I wear a narrow at work usually and have a few skinnys for social events. My full widths are a last resort.

Guy on the left in the length picture has it way too long. Guy on the right is perfect, middle of belt buckle.

Most of the designs you posted are a no-go, except for in the first picture - there are some nice ones there.

I should learn the windsor or half windsor, but when I can tie the regular knot the perfect length on the first try every morning, it's hard to change.

Post: #3

It's all relative depending on the event and what you are going for. Is this with a suit or just a casual Friday shirt, tie and slacks day? I prefer a wider width tie for professional events. Skinny ties just scream too hipster for work to me. Some people have all sorts of rules about matching the collar spread to your face shape, etc., but in the end, it is what looks good on you.

I rock the business casual shirt, tie and slacks for work every day and the suit just for the courtroom. I really like mixing patterns, e.g. doing a check/gingham shirt with a diagonal check tie. I like checked shirts for that old time, country look. This requires having somewhat of an eye for patterns and design so be careful. For example, don't sport a paisley tie with a plaid shirt.

If you are unsure, do the old trick and take a female or two with you when you go tie shopping. They will find what looks best on you.

Even though I hate rules, there is one good one - no matching solid color tie on solid color shirt. That damn I want to be in the Mafia trend was fucking retarded when it was popular and is just awful now.

Post: #4

Who wears ties these days?

Solid ties, or small polka dots are easy to match with shirt/suit patterns (presuming you are not trying to peacock). Rep (diagonal stripe) patterns will clash with shirt and suit stripes. Fabric is a great way to create interesting texture in your outfit without worrying about pattern clashes.

It's a tie, not a crotch cover. But you don't want bare shirt/belly sticking out under it.

Windsor and half-Windsor knots are large. They only work with thin fabric or wide spread collars. Use a Pratt/Shelby knot, where you start with the tie reversed. This is a beautifully symmetric knot with a perfect dimple every time. The common four-in-hand knot is too small and asymmetric.

The width of your tie should match the width of your lapels.

Post: #5

1) What fabric should a tie be?
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, etc
Summer, Winter
Should the occasion match the material?


Most of your ties should be silk.

This is simple silk tie is unfukwitable.



In the spring and summer you can opt for linen and cotton.
You should also think about going "knit" or "loose weave".


In the fall, the stylish people do wool






There are very few occasions that call for a specific material, but evening wear cries out for a "satin" finish.



2) Tie Knots
What type of knots to go with?
What style goes with what age range?
What knot goes with what type of collar?

The 2 basic knots - the 4 in Hand for most collars, and the half Windsor for spread/cutaway collars

Anything else, including the full Windsor, is consider obnoxious or for dandies. So if you want to do Meringovian - you've got to have a solid sartorial past or be dressing for halloween.


Here's some typical cutaway collars with a full knot windsor.


Here's a cutaway with a half Windsor.


Which one looks less obnoxious?


,.. to be continued

Post: #6

3) Tie Width
Traditional, Narrow, skinny etc
What width goes with what occasion, style, collar spread?

Wide/Standard size - goes with trad collars and wide collars
Narrow/skinny- small point collars and narrow lapels

Skinny/Narrow



4) Tie Length

The tip of your tie should stop in the center of your belt buckle, unless you work @ a clothing store

or you're an Italian Industrialist.





5) Tie Design
Solid, Stripes, Dots, Check, etc

What should one wear wearing a solid shirt vs wearing a strip shirt, etc?

This is the gold standard - Italian Silk, Italian hands, simple geometric designs - it's supposed to put you to sleep. ~150-200 per tie





loud tie? use simple shirt



loud shirt, use simple tie



loud shirt AND loud tie?



passive aggressive


6) Tie Color
Light, Dark, etc
What color goes with what?

Tough question - here's where I look for inspiration

http://todaystie.tumblr.com/

7) Tie Bar

Tie Bars are for dandies. People that work with machinery don't wear ties anymore, so it's lost its functional purpose.

That being said, I like flat bars.

This is what I rock.

http://www.jpressonline.com/silver-polished/



Were I to buy more, they would be flat bars of one color

like this one at the tie bar

8) Misc info about tie style

You have to know who you're dressing for. Everyone thinks that they want to be Neil McCaffrey and suit up on the daily - but buying good quality and good fitting stuff is either expensive or time consuming or both. Caring for these items is also pretty annoying. (you stain a tie, even after cleaning it, it's never quite the same)

Right now, I'd prolly still fuck with bowties, but I have a feeling they're on the way out in terms of being hip and cool. Skinny ties and Fat ties will ebb and sway.

Solid ties of different fabrics and textures are what's cool right now, but I think it can be a pretty timeless look.

WIA

Post: #7

Nice! I was just checking out this article the other day... http://www.gq.com/style/style-manual/201...rs#slide=1

Good insight guys. I'm glad I got some tie 101, I found out I was making some mistakes.

Post: #8

My style is very classic. Different guys do better with different styles. With that in mind, here are my choices.

1) What fabric should a tie be?
-Silk.

2) Tie Knots
What type of knots to go with?
-Windsor
What style goes with what age range?
-Four-in-hand knot is for 10 to 14 year old boys.

3) Tie Width
-Standard. Maybe narrow once in a while.

4) Tie Length
-Belt-buckle length. Guy on the right is correct. Both of those guys should be wearing a belt.

5) Tie Design
Solid, Stripes, Dots, Check, etc
-Mix it up. Polka dots are more playful than a reserved solid or striped tie and will stand out more.

6) Tie Color
Light, Dark, etc
What color goes with what?
-If you need to wear a suit every day for work, a simple system is as follows: charcoal grey suits, white and bold blue shirts, ties that match well to either the white or the blue. Keep the color wheel in mind and look for opposites on the wheel as well as exact matches from one element of the tie to the shirt. Also similar related tones can look good. Most importantly, just eyeball the tie and shirt together and see if it works.

7) Tie Bar
-The tie is a phallic symbol. A tie bar is like a dick tuck. Let it swing!

8) Misc info about tie style

Quote:http://www.sharpman.com/assessing_the_va..._a_tie.htm

The cut. A tie should be cut exactly to a 45 degree angle. You can test this by holding the tie out in front of you, gripping the narrow end. If it is made right, it should not twist.

Post: #9

Since we're talking style.

Dude on the left is in the Biz so he gets to violate the rules. The rule here is that the tie knot should take up 1/2 of the collar space.



Other noteworthy things
- guy on left is rocking some very loud windowpanes
- gut on the right has a custom lining - worn by an average man, the chance of the average person seeing the peacock is infinitesimal.
- guy on the lefts pocket square is doing the waterfall.
- guy on the right is wearing a blazer with an odd colored waist coat and light pants

WIA

Post: #10

I just ordered a black grenadine tie, white pocket square with black border, and a tie bar.

Post: #11

How to tie a tie like an Italian.