RE: Exploring the Middle East
Hey I’ve spent a fair bit of time in the Middle East, so feel free to ask me any questions you may have.
To start off with, I would give the following pieces of advice:
Learn some Arabic, preferably the local dialect of the country you’re going to. People in the region have a very low expectation for foreigners speaking Arabic, so even a little bit will be greatly appreciated and open up a few doors.
Don’t just limit yourself to the capitals of these countries. Beirut for example is very Westernized and you might not get a very Middle Eastern feel from it, while Cairo is massive and chaotic and a lot of times it gives people a bad impression of the country as a whole. In general, off-the-beaten-path excursions are safer in the Middle East than in other third word countries (such as Latin America for example), so you can go to 2nd and 3rd tier cities even as a clueless tourist and you should be alright.
Don’t think Egypt is just about pyramids or pharaonic stuff. The Islamic architecture in Cairo is every bit as impressive as the stuff from Ancient Egypt. Sites not to be missed are al-Azhar, the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, the Madrassa of Sultan Hassan and the Islamic Art Museum. One cool thing is that many of these monuments are submerged in the middle of the modern, bustling city, take a bit of effort to find, and are not super touristy. Get Caroline William’s book “Islamic Monuments in Cairo” and try to follow some of the walks in the book. The process of looking for and discovering these places will be an adventure in itself.
For some crazy cultural experiences, check out the belly dancing clubs frequented by locals (not the ones aimed at tourists). You’ll see some chubby women shaking their stuff, horny Egyptian men raining cash upon them, and hear some strange carnivalesque music from another world.
For specific country recommendations:
Egypt
- Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel. You can take a boat-ride up the Nile between these sights, highly-recommended.
- Siwa. An oasis in Egypt’s Western Desert close to Libya.
- Alexandria. Has a lot of old-world charm, very European feel from the colonial era when Alexandria was full of Greeks, Italians and English.
- Beaches. Egypt has some of the best beaches in the Middle East. Go to Dahab for the hippy backpacker experience or Nuweiba to camp on pristine beaches.
Lebanon
- If you’re trying to do Lebanon on a budget, the best place to stay in Beirut is the Saifi Institute. It’s a hostal / language school / Lebanese restaurant / bar. The Lebanese girls who frequent the rooftop bar are probably more down-to-earth and open to meeting foreigners than in Beirut’s more chic, upscale venues.
- Byblos (Jbeil in Arabic). Charming coastal village, pleasant place to walk around on a Saturday afternoon.
- Baalbek. Impressive Roman ruins, makes you realize just how vast the Roman Empire was that they were building massive temples in the Middle East.
- Beiteddine, for the beautiful palace, and then Deir al-Qamar, for a very traditional Lebanese village
- Tyre (Sur in Arabic). Best beaches in Lebanon are here.
- For a really off-the-wall experience, go to Hezbollah’s Museum of the Resistance, which celebrates its guerrilla war against Israel. It’s in a remote area and hard to get to, but totally worth it.
Jordan
- Make sure you see Petra and camp out in the desert in Wadi Rum
Turkey
- In Istanbul, don’t get stuck in the Sultanahmet district the whole time. Stay in Cihangir or Beyoglu near Istiklal street and make sure you check out the bar scene in Kadikoy on the Asian side.
- Check out Izmir for one of Turkey’s more open-minded cities. Great place to be in the summer. And Cappadocia for a surreal landscape and churches carved into caves.
Then one surprising country omission from your list is Morocco. Out of all the countries in the Middle East, I think Morocco is the one most likely to give you the classic “Middle Eastern” experience of old, labyrinthine cities, the smells and spices of the bazaar, the traditional clothing, the whole exotic deal – while at the same time it’s slower-paced and a bit easier to navigate as a tourist.
Then one final piece of advice. If you go to the Middle East with the expectation that you’re going to have a relaxing vacation with the typical tourist amenities, you’re inevitably going to be disappointed.
You have to appreciate the Middle East for what it is, and what it is is a gritty, raw place where traditional modes of living and thinking still survive to the present day. You’ll meet people whose personalities are not shaped by the standardized molds of mass media and public education, as in the West. Real characters with their own eccentric beliefs. On the same street or at the same café, you can talk to someone whose head is still in the Middle Ages, another guy who’s still stuck in the 1960’s (including in the way he dresses), and then a young guy who’s up to speed on the latest Netflix series. In the same day, you can hang out with Islamic clerics talking about crazy miracles they witnessed, old degenerates drinking beer in clandestine bars, and beautiful women who seem 100% Westernized until a classic Arabic song comes on, whereupon their inner belly dancer will break out and you’ll see some sultry dance moves.
In short, you should go to the Middle East for the people and experiences, and less for the sights.
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