Post: #101

Many good points already made.

As for pocket squares, one shouldn't be too afraid of "breaking" with other colours. Monochrome work well, but tend to put you in the white-collar box, since they often look more politically correct.

I can highly recommend swedish brand J Lindeberg. Since they opened their online store in the US, I've been having a steady inflow of orders since their suits are affordable and of really good quality. Their pocket squares and ties are some of the best around!

Flagship store in SOHO NY, another good spot is Atrium in Miami Beach.

Look beyond the tax-free shelves for an interesting fragrance. The Outpost in Barcelona stocks some of the best kept secrets (as well as other cool accessories for men). CDG x Monocle Hinoki 01 is subtle but often gives me a lot of attention. Girls often say it smells "sexy and manly".

Post: #102

(09-28-2011 09:11 AM)Benelli Wrote:  CDG x Monocle Hinoki 01 is subtle but often gives me a lot of attention. Girls often say it smells "sexy and manly".

Agree, Comme des Garcons have some great, subtle scents that not many other guys will be wearing.

Quote: I can highly recommend swedish brand J Lindeberg. Since they opened their online store in the US, I've been having a steady inflow of orders since their suits are affordable and of really good quality. Their pocket squares and ties are some of the best around!

They're good, but a bit overpriced. J Press had a very good selection of patterned silk ones for about $40 each last time I went, but they don't seem to be listed on their site.

Anyone got a good resource?

Post: #103

Anyone care to offer an opinion regarding wearing a white slim-fit v-neck underneath an open black blazer vest? This would be in conjunction with dark denim and footwear in a higher-end city night club setting. Of note, the white v-neck allows me to display my exceptional physical form (I could literally be on the cover of Men's Health) of which I dedicate significant time and effort, while the blazer adds a touch of refinement and style. Would a pocket square look even more absurd?

Post: #104

(09-28-2011 11:36 AM)Gixxermuscle Wrote:  Anyone care to offer an opinion regarding wearing a white slim-fit v-neck underneath an open black blazer vest? This would be in conjunction with dark denim and footwear in a higher-end city night club setting. Of note, the white v-neck allows me to display my exceptional physical form (I could literally be on the cover of Men's Health) of which I dedicate significant time and effort, while the blazer adds a touch of refinement and style. Would a pocket square look even more absurd?

I've rocked that style before, I've also rocked wife beaters layered with an open cardigan.

I feel like the look is incomplete without a pocket square when there can be one, whether it be a blazer, vest, t-shirt, or button down, so to answer your question, that would definitely not be absurd.

The funny thing about living in Miami is dressing in this manner, people ask why are you wearing a "suit" -- if you have on a blazer it's automatically classified as a suit, even with jeans -- or you're always "dressed up", and very once in a while you get the "are you gay?" shit test.

I take it as a compliment, underneath it all, if it's coming from a dude it means "you look better than me man", and if its from a lady, she's saying, "you look good, I noticed you enough to say something."

Post: #105

jariel -

"The funny thing about living in Miami is dressing in this manner, people ask why are you wearing a "suit" '

You get that in Miami?

Miami is one of the places I never, ever get that. And if I ever have, it never had a negative connotation.

Last time I was in Brickel, Custom Suited down, I got the "Are you the owner?" a few times, but I consider that a good thing.

For me, Miami is one of those places (or at least the places I roll in Miami) where I would go Custom Suited 100% of the time.

Post: #106

(09-28-2011 12:05 PM)jariel Wrote:  

(09-28-2011 11:36 AM)Gixxermuscle Wrote:  Anyone care to offer an opinion regarding wearing a white slim-fit v-neck underneath an open black blazer vest? This would be in conjunction with dark denim and footwear in a higher-end city night club setting. Of note, the white v-neck allows me to display my exceptional physical form (I could literally be on the cover of Men's Health) of which I dedicate significant time and effort, while the blazer adds a touch of refinement and style. Would a pocket square look even more absurd?

I've rocked that style before, I've also rocked wife beaters layered with an open cardigan.

I feel like the look is incomplete without a pocket square when there can be one, whether it be a blazer, vest, t-shirt, or button down, so to answer your question, that would definitely not be absurd.

The funny thing about living in Miami is dressing in this manner, people ask why are you wearing a "suit" -- if you have on a blazer it's automatically classified as a suit, even with jeans -- or you're always "dressed up", and very once in a while you get the "are you gay?" shit test.

I take it as a compliment, underneath it all, if it's coming from a dude it means "you look better than me man", and if its from a lady, she's saying, "you look good, I noticed you enough to say something."

Cheers, I very much appreciate the response. Regarding the 'gay' accusations...well, haters gon hate, fatties gon fat, and hoes gon hoe.

Wife beater layered with an open cardigan...Do you have any photographic examples on hand?

Post: #107

(09-28-2011 12:24 PM)thegmanifesto Wrote:  jariel -

"The funny thing about living in Miami is dressing in this manner, people ask why are you wearing a "suit" '

You get that in Miami?

Miami is one of the places I never, ever get that. And if I ever have, it never had a negative connotation.

Last time I was in Brickel, Custom Suited down, I got the "Are you the owner?" a few times, but I consider that a good thing.

For me, Miami is one of those places (or at least the places I roll in Miami) where I would go Custom Suited 100% of the time.

Outside of the Beach and Brickell, you're around those who are let's call it less sophisticated and cultured.

I have UES swag, I'm not originally from here.

Post: #108

(09-28-2011 11:36 AM)Gixxermuscle Wrote:  Anyone care to offer an opinion regarding wearing a white slim-fit v-neck underneath an open black blazer vest? This would be in conjunction with dark denim and footwear in a higher-end city night club setting. Of note, the white v-neck allows me to display my exceptional physical form (I could literally be on the cover of Men's Health) of which I dedicate significant time and effort, while the blazer adds a touch of refinement and style. Would a pocket square look even more absurd?

This is a solid look if you have the physique.
I am doing alot of low cut v-necks these days and the looks I get from women (older ones) is hilarious. Heck, it is a war out there so any edge you have use it.
Like you said, haters are gonna hate.

Post: #109

I've seen the idea of a work suit vs a going out suit mentioned a few times. What are the key differences? Pics for illustration would be good as well.

Currently for work I'm rocking a lighter dark blue 2 button suit from TM Lewin (British company). Very slim cut and tailored to fit me perfectly. Couldn't find the exact suit on their website, but similar in cut/look to this one:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Hoxton-Charcoal...1=2-button

(Sorry for not linking, haven't reached 10 post min yet)

Post: #110

(09-29-2011 11:51 AM)Laser Wrote:  I've seen the idea of a work suit vs a going out suit mentioned a few times. What are the key differences? Pics for illustration would be good as well.

Currently for work I'm rocking a lighter dark blue 2 button suit from TM Lewin (British company). Very slim cut and tailored to fit me perfectly. Couldn't find the exact suit on their website, but similar in cut/look to this one:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Hoxton-Charcoal...1=2-button

(Sorry for not linking, haven't reached 10 post min yet)

It's pretty simple really.

Work Suit:



Dope Suit:



Any questions?

Post: #111

When I dress to impress, I don't ever go out in anything but a three piece suit (see: dope suit above). I love the way it makes me look and feel... and women can't help staring, even if you're an average looking guy. Nothing can stand toe to toe with that classy vintage look.

I've owned three "dope suits" since towards the end of college. I haven't yet commented much on the whole suiting up strategy that G always touts around here, but it works like you wouldn't believe... even if you're a poor young schmuck like I was a few years ago.

I was able to get three used suits off Ebay for under $500, and all three tailored for about half that. I'd have probably spent close to $2k in SoHo. So to the younger guys, it's not impossible. Plus, here in DC you can get away with suiting up anywhere almost as well as Miami.

Post: #112

(09-29-2011 12:04 PM)thegmanifesto Wrote:  

(09-29-2011 11:51 AM)Laser Wrote:  I've seen the idea of a work suit vs a going out suit mentioned a few times. What are the key differences? Pics for illustration would be good as well.

Currently for work I'm rocking a lighter dark blue 2 button suit from TM Lewin (British company). Very slim cut and tailored to fit me perfectly. Couldn't find the exact suit on their website, but similar in cut/look to this one:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Hoxton-Charcoal...1=2-button

(Sorry for not linking, haven't reached 10 post min yet)

It's pretty simple really.

Work Suit:

withfriendship.com/images/h/36514/candidate-chris-christie.jpg[/img]

Dope Suit:

1.bp.blogspot.com/_0kdbxfQ2GqM/S35hENYYWoI/AAAAAAAAAHY/pX82nom_v8k/s320/Goldfinger-Posters.jpg[/img]

Any questions?

While not exactly an apples to apples comparison (fatass w/ ill fitting suit vs. the man Sean Connery) I'm understanding the vibe your trying to convey. Any specifics/rules of thumb that seperate the dope suit from a work suit? Things I noticed:

3 piece
shorter sleeve on the jacket to display the french cuff
pocket square
Skinny tie
Hard to tell, but looks like Sean's suit has some texture or pattern, as opposed to the plain suit in the first picture

Anything else?

Also, where do you guys stand on the amount of break one should have in the suit pants? I feel like too much break makes it look like you're too short for your pants.

Post: #113

(09-28-2011 09:11 AM)Benelli Wrote:  I can highly recommend swedish brand J Lindeberg. Since they opened their online store in the US, I've been having a steady inflow of orders since their suits are affordable and of really good quality. Their pocket squares and ties are some of the best around!

I have some insight in their business model and while they've been great a couple of years back the more international roll out has them cutting costs. It's not the same worksmanship anymore.

A Swedish designer that I'd rate higher is Oscar Jacobson for suits and formal wear.

Post: #114

(09-29-2011 12:19 PM)Gmac Wrote:  I've owned three "dope suits" since towards the end of college. I haven't yet commented much on the whole suiting up strategy that G always touts around here, but it works like you wouldn't believe... even if you're a poor young schmuck like I was a few years ago.

Great work Gmac.

That is the whole thing most don't understand.

The style of "Game Kung Fu" I advocate for is just as effective for those with Big Bankrolls as for the Bankroll challenged.

(It's actually more like "Game Jeet Kune Do")

Post: #115

(09-29-2011 03:00 PM)Vicious Wrote:  

(09-28-2011 09:11 AM)Benelli Wrote:  I can highly recommend swedish brand J Lindeberg. Since they opened their online store in the US, I've been having a steady inflow of orders since their suits are affordable and of really good quality. Their pocket squares and ties are some of the best around!

I have some insight in their business model and while they've been great a couple of years back the more international roll out has them cutting costs. It's not the same worksmanship anymore.

A Swedish designer that I'd rate higher is Oscar Jacobson for suits and formal wear.

True that. Same goes for the OC line, not the same thing as back in the days.

Jacobson makes quality stuff, but still a bit on the conservative side for me. Filippa K is another swedish brand with well-fitting suits (young but classy) - the rest of their fashion is a bit too sterile and monochrome though.

@Gmac & @thegmanifesto. Three-piece is cool, w black tie a vest is so much cooler than cummerbund for instance, but for going out I find the vest killing the mojo a bit. You might aswell add a monocle and grow a wyatt earp mustache while you're at it.

I'd go with a great-fitting suit if not tailored, Eton shirt (doesnt crease) if not tailored (preferably in Italy), shoes by prada, gieves & hawkes, zegna (calfskin for the win), be creative with pocket square.

In europe or japan/korea/taiwan(only taipei) you can pull off a sick suit, shirt combo with lanvin or tod's sneakers too. perfect art exhibition combo for me. Still, im mid 20's so it's a look that works for me on special occasions, not for everybody and certainly not for 30+ guys (trying too hard).

Post: #116

(09-29-2011 01:45 PM)Laser Wrote:  

(09-29-2011 12:04 PM)thegmanifesto Wrote:  

(09-29-2011 11:51 AM)Laser Wrote:  I've seen the idea of a work suit vs a going out suit mentioned a few times. What are the key differences? Pics for illustration would be good as well.

Currently for work I'm rocking a lighter dark blue 2 button suit from TM Lewin (British company). Very slim cut and tailored to fit me perfectly. Couldn't find the exact suit on their website, but similar in cut/look to this one:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Hoxton-Charcoal...1=2-button

(Sorry for not linking, haven't reached 10 post min yet)

It's pretty simple really.

Work Suit:

withfriendship.com/images/h/36514/candidate-chris-christie.jpg[/img]

Dope Suit:

1.bp.blogspot.com/_0kdbxfQ2GqM/S35hENYYWoI/AAAAAAAAAHY/pX82nom_v8k/s320/Goldfinger-Posters.jpg[/img]

Any questions?

While not exactly an apples to apples comparison (fatass w/ ill fitting suit vs. the man Sean Connery) I'm understanding the vibe your trying to convey. Any specifics/rules of thumb that seperate the dope suit from a work suit? Things I noticed:

3 piece
shorter sleeve on the jacket to display the french cuff
pocket square
Skinny tie
Hard to tell, but looks like Sean's suit has some texture or pattern, as opposed to the plain suit in the first picture

Anything else?

Also, where do you guys stand on the amount of break one should have in the suit pants? I feel like too much break makes it look like you're too short for your pants.

"While not exactly an apples to apples comparison (fatass w/ ill fitting suit"

Careful holmes, that very well might be our next president.

"3 piece"

Not crucial.

"shorter sleeve on the jacket to display the french cuff"

It is a more correct sleeve length. Chris Christies sleeve length is ridiculous.

"pocket square"

That is key.

"Skinny tie"

Not crucial, but can be dope.

"Hard to tell, but looks like Sean's suit has some texture or pattern, as opposed to the plain suit in the first picture"

The main thing is his is "tailiored", actually Custom Made. London. Savile Row.

Post: #117

Picked up one of these recently. Tailored, not custom. 2 piece ~$500.

http://baroniprive.com/

Post: #118

Initially tested this suiting up last night at mid high end club and honestly I was amazed with the attention I got. Mad respect. Suit up guys, this is definitely the key.

I had my swagger on, and walking into the venue where there were three rope points of entry check, I was able to completely bypass the entry queues and bouncers were simply opening up the entrances as I was walking in with greetings, how you doing sir.

Now I have to calibrate and adopt this style correctly.

Respect to G. I am a fan now.

Post: #119

G, whenever you say "custom suit" I assume you mean tailored?

Post: #120

(10-01-2011 04:34 AM)MD81 Wrote:  Initially tested this suiting up last night at mid high end club and honestly I was amazed with the attention I got. Mad respect. Suit up guys, this is definitely the key.

I had my swagger on, and walking into the venue where there were three rope points of entry check, I was able to completely bypass the entry queues and bouncers were simply opening up the entrances as I was walking in with greetings, how you doing sir.

Now I have to calibrate and adopt this style correctly.

Respect to G. I am a fan now.

If you look and feel important, other people will believe it.

Good job.

Post: #121

First, read some Barthes.

Then go analyze images. It's fun.


Pocket square anarchy. Love it.



Why italy rocks.


Ironically this looks a little like me and my brothers with a crazy uncle. Shows how timeless some "looks" are. Most of the garments in this picture could be interchanged between the guys and they would still look cool and casual.


The way to grow old. The Royal Oak, bracelet and colours give off a youngish vibe. Gino wears a rose gold royal oak sometimes, hard colour to pull off but damn cool. Only minus for me is the tie, looks like a curtain fabric used in any Holiday Inn Hotel. His looks have lots of humor and "don't give a fuck" attitude - very interesting albeit not for everyone.

Shout out goes to http://www.thesartorialist.com/

Post: #122

(01-29-2010 08:57 PM)topshelf305 Wrote:  

(01-29-2010 06:31 PM)speakeasy Wrote:  Hey G,

I've never been a suit guy, unless it's too weddings or funerals. Do you have any recommended readings on suits for fashion? I know there's suits you'd wear to business, and then there's the type of suit Diddy would wear to a record release party. How about breaking that out for us suit newbies. I know I need to pick up at least a few just for formal things.

Also, I'd like to hear about the accessories you need. What kind of shoes do you pair up the the suits. What colors(both shoes and suit fabric) are best. How you coordinate the tie, belt and watch and that sort of thing.

I know a little bit about this so I will add in my 2 cents.

MPM has a few posts about specifics (designers, cuts, etc) that you can look up on his site.

As for what I know:

-Suits (and accompanying accessories) range from formal to casual on a continuum. The most formal are tuxedo outfits, the least are the weird patterns, rhinestones and shit you will see some dude wearing in hollywood. Stay away from the hollywood look unless you are a celebrity and get your weird clothes for free, trends do not last and you look like a pussy.

-In general, fit is most important, followed by fabric (thread count: higher generally better), then pattern. A $5000 black suit that fits wrong looks worse than a $500 suit that looks wrong, because people who know will know that you are trying hard and STILL look like a dumbass. The sourcing of fabric is important as is the thread count; italian fabrics are what you want. 300s is a good thread count. Zegna makes a nice fabric. Pattern, as long as you stick with classics, is all up to personal preference. Nothing ridiculous, there is no need. I am partial to black suits or dark grey with pinstripes. Again personal preference, just make sure things match up properly.

-If money isn't an issue go with bespoke (custom fit) suits; go to London to have these made. You can also do well in NYC or Milan, and other towns in Italia. Zegna, Ozwald Boateng (a bit more progressive), Astor+Black, or any of the higher end savile row/bond st tailors will get you squared away. For less $ make sure you can get it tailored; buy a cheaper suit and take it to a good tailor instead of an expensive suit that you don't get altered. I stay away from brooks brothers and Polo RL suits.

-Never skimp on shoes. They should be the costliest part of your wardrobe besides the suit, and you will need to take care of them. A good pair of shoes will last forever if you get them repaired, and you can start off with one black pair and one brown pair. I am partial to gucci link loafers and the king of loafers ferragamo. Tuxedo shoes are the most formal (these are shiny), then laces (I wear to some weddings, black tie events, and in business scenarios), then loafers (my personal favorite and very versatile if you have swag). If you have the bread go for custom fit ones (cordovan horse leather is the tippity top end); most likely you will not have that kind of $ so for starters go to a place like Nordstrom if you live in the suburbs, or preferably hit a high fashion city: you are looking for quality. London, NYC, Paris, LA, Moscow, Milan, Miami, Dubai, even Chicago or Boston for more classic styles. Classic is important: make your expensive pieces sharp (shoes, suit) and make sure they fit right. When you buy shoes ask yourself "will I be able to wear these in 3 years?" Even if you don't keep them that long, its a good habit to not looking like a clown.

-Shirts have a high turnover and generally won't last that long. Always wear white shirts to dinner. Clean white shirts are the staple of your suit wardrobe. Have at least 3 of them, and you can never have enough. Find a brand that fits right and stick with it, there are hundreds of quality shirts out there and if you don't have to pay more to get them altered then all the better. Pink makes nice shirts, but expensive. Don't feel bad buying off the rack at Nordstrom, Saks, Barneys, etc, especially if on sale and it fits. Shirts can be creative, try some pinstripes, solid colors, anything that tickles your fancy.

-Ties, I like Hermes. A tie pulls the outfit together and you should not skimp. Buy 4 good hermes ties instead of 10 shitty ones. People will notice.

-I don't know anything about pocket squares so G that's your call. Socks should match shoes, shoes should match belt. If pants and shoes are different color, socks should be in between the two (gray pants black shoes = dark grey socks). Just buy decent socks, that feel good. Belts you can get creative, but stick with something tasteful. Armani makes nice belts, or pick up some custom pieces in Argentina. Brand of belt isn't important, just make sure leather is up to par.

-Good rule with shirts/ties: if tie has pattern, wear solid shirt. if shirt has pattern, wear solid tie. As for mixing patterns, beware and don't ask me, as I tend not to.

Hope this is helpful, feel free to correct me on any errors

This discussion is great. The first move in clothes game is to get clothes that actually fit you (I am shocked at the mis-sized clothes dudes wear on the street). Then get quality threads and accessories and don't balk at paying for quality, although don't pay for simply a label. Clothes may not get you laid the way a woman can signal DTF with an outfit, but good clothes sure aren't going to STOP you from getting laid unless you wear a suit to a beach party or some incongruent nonsense like that.

Post: #123

Is there any role for sports coats or blazers in the lifesytle of an international playboy? or it has to be a suit? or i guess more specifically how to choose sports coat with jeans vs suit....i would think its venue dependent....

I live in Houston where its hot as hell....so thought of suit after work makes me cringe....

I am trying to elevate my game up from regular clubs and wine bars to 5 star hotel bar scene.....But i want to go prepared ...any thoughts?

Post: #124

G, do you have an opinion fabrics between Loro Piana, Scabal, Holland & Sherry and Vitale Barberis?

Which one do you recommend?

Also, single vented, ventless or double vented?

Post: #125

(10-01-2011 06:43 AM)Vicious Wrote:  G, whenever you say "custom suit" I assume you mean tailored?

When I say "Custom Suit", I mean Custom Suit.

Ie Bespoke, ie hand made for me.

However, for the purposes of the narrative on here, you could substitute "Custom Suit" with Well Tailored Suit.