Post: #151

Choose centre. Shutter types?

Post: #152

(12-13-2018 11:03 AM)sterling_archer Wrote:  I selected RAW + JPEG format and played with some macro shooting.

My advice is to just shoot RAW (lol). It should be very quick to change a RAW photo in camera to a JPEG if you need to transfer it to your phone for some quick social media uploads, and shooting JPEG only really limits what you can do with your photos later on (though you do save space in the long run, but storage is so cheap it shouldn't matter).

Quote:It has a button on the side of lens which allows selection of AF macro mode. Regarding metering, it has "multiple", "center" and "spot". Should I check "center"?

For macro shooting, center is probably best since you are intent on showing a singular subject or a specific aspect of a subject, so that's the best way to start and let the camera properly expose the picture. I generally use "multiple" for landscape shots and "center" for things like people and specific subjects (macro, product, etc.). I do make use of "spot" on occasion, but that takes some practice in getting to know your camera and its dynamic range (expose/focus on something then recompose).

Quote: Btw, what is the difference between shutter types and which you prefer?

Just stick with the default shutter for now, all the various front curtain/rear curtain sync stuff has specific applications that you might not encounter quite yet. Just get to know the camera first.

Post: #153

@MMPerth and Penta

Shutter type on my camera is "auto", "mechanical" and "electronic".

Post: #154

(12-14-2018 12:31 AM)sterling_archer Wrote:  @MMPerth and Penta

Shutter type on my camera is "auto", "mechanical" and "electronic".

I was going to type out my own lengthy and technical response, but I found a post on a photography forum that lays out exactly what I was going to say.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4198770

Post: #155

Tnx for the link. It seems that best for me currently is simply using auto function.

Post: #156

What about accesoires? For my Canon DSLR

1) Are the cheap accus good (instead of original Canon ones)?

2) Do I need an UV filter (I also go to the mountains), if so do I need an expensive one? Or is a lens hood good enough?

Post: #157

Tripod
Pacsafe Backpack
Wireless remote to activate the shutter
Spare batteries

People use UV filters to be able to not use the lens cover and protect their lenses at the same time. No one actually uses them to filter UV.

Lens hood is important for getting the effect of the sun out of your photos unless thats what you want in the photo. They are also good for protecting the lens.

Post: #158

(12-14-2018 10:32 AM)Lime Wrote:  What about accesoires? For my Canon DSLR

1) Are the cheap accus good (instead of original Canon ones)?

2) Do I need an UV filter (I also go to the mountains), if so do I need an expensive one? Or is a lens hood good enough?

In general original name brand accessories (batteries etc.) are going to be more expensive, but quite often you can find third party accessories that perform just as good for much cheaper. For instance I've never ever purchased original name brand batteries, I've always gotten third party batteries for much much less. Research is required in this field depending on the accessory.

UV filters are generally looked upon as newbie items, but there are a few specific situations where they are welcome.

Bad weather + bad conditions (think blowing winds at the beach where surf/sand might get on the front element). Scratched front elements will have no effect on your photos, but it will hurt the resale value of your gear in the future.

I use a UV filter specifically for when I go back country skiing in the mountains. Why? Because the constant temperature change from putting my camera in and out of my camera bag tends to put condensation on the front element. It won't damage it, but it can ruin shots. With a UV filter, I have no damage worries about wiping clear the front of the lens with my shirt or glove (I've scratched the front element of a lens before from wiping it clear with a piece of dirt on the front).

There is no reason to shell out a ton of money on a really good UV filter. Get the Amazon Basics UV filters, they do the job.

Post: #159

UV as a lense cap, but polarized filter is helpful if you plan on doing any water shots as it can get rid of the glare on the water unless you want it there. I think that's really only time you use a filter as all the other ones really only block light and can be simulated in post. Also IR photography but I don't know enough about it.

Post: #160

I always have a polariser attached. Once you start using one you’ll have no idea how you got by not having one before. Pro Tip: Polarisers only work at 90 degrees to the light, so only with the light hitting your shoulder.

In terms of protecting your glass, don’t bother with UV filters etc. In fact don’t even bother with ND filters (the software does a better job). The less crap you keep off a lens the sharper it is. The exception being a polariser. That is worth a degree of lost sharpness!

If you’re paranoid about scratching a lens, just use a lens hood.

Don’t worry about your gear, just go and take photos. Unless you have absolute rubbish, most gear will take a pounding.

Post: #161

I bought a Canon D6 with a Sigma 35mm 1.4 art lens. Lens was quite expensive ($1000). Now I read that for portrait or upper body shots, one should rather get a lens in the 100mm+ range. Any advice on this? I got the 35mm because even with a 50mm lens, I consistently found myself out of space.

Also when taking selfies with a remote controller and tripod, any tips on how to best get in focus? At first I always shot with the autofocus on, but I noticed my face would almost never be in focus. I then switched to manual focus and I try to position myself somewhat in the area of where I believe the manual focus is set on. But obviously it's not perfect and I would like some further control. Are there any tools or techniques I can use to make sure the focus is 100% of the time on my face/eyes?

Post: #162

Generally a 85mm to 100mm lens makes the people you're shooting a lot more flattering. It has to do with distortion the persons face. I like using a 50 or my 24-70 set to 70 depending on what aperture I want to use.

35mm is good for street photography and you can get those good shots of people also if you know how to work the lens. For example if you are standing and shooting a model at eye level, the 35 could elongate the persons lower body because that would be near the outer edge of the frame.

For taking selfies, you put an object where your face will be say a lamp, focus the camera and then turn autofocus off so that the camera doesn't adjust the focus before you take the shot. Also keep the aperture more open so that your whole face is in focus. Its pretty tricky to be honest. I did my passport photo this way though.

Post: #163

Good material to learn post processing RAW files using Lightroom?

Post: #164

PHLearn is the absolute best for lightroom/photoshop. Focus on learning lightroom first then onto photoshop. You can torrent most of his courses.

In general, Udemy, Creative live and Lynda all have good photography video courses that you can torrent. Before I got my camera I probably plowed through 100 hours of material. It will really get you up to speed on things.

Post: #165

Is it wrong that I clicked on this because I thought it said "Getting into pornography - how to start, what to get"?

Post: #166

(12-15-2018 09:21 AM)Teedub Wrote:  Is it wrong that I clicked on this because I thought it said "Getting into pornography - how to start, what to get"?

I think you are not the first. When I created thread, I think couple of guys at first pages also commented similar.

Post: #167

Real or Photoshopped? - I liked this Pic but some things just off:

Post: #168

(12-14-2018 08:59 PM)Jozi Wrote:  Also when taking selfies with a remote controller and tripod, any tips on how to best get in focus?

A trick I learned: get positioned where you will be in the shot and then using the camera focus on top of the tripod. Put the camera back on tripod and when you get positioned to take the shot the focus will be set to your face.

Post: #169

I heard about this, this is called recompose am I right? How would you hold the focus while you move around, is that "lock" button for, how to use it?

Post: #170

Sorry if she's annoying, lots of good tips in here for self-portraits, especially the focus trick (I think selfies are one thing we can trust women's advice on ).

Edit: Sorry, I tried to time-stamp it- the focus tip starts at 5:43 in the video

Post: #171

Does anyone know if camera prices tend to come down after the Holidays?

I'm thinking of getting the Canon D6 Mark II. When it came out last year it was US$1,999 and now you can get the body on Ebay or Amazon for about $1,299. Wondering if it's worth waiting to see if the price comes down more after the 1st of the year..

Post: #172

If anything, you would find the best deal on boxing day. The 6D Mark 2 is cool because of the swivel screen.

Post: #173

(12-16-2018 02:25 AM)sterling_archer Wrote:  I heard about this, this is called recompose am I right? How would you hold the focus while you move around, is that "lock" button for, how to use it?

Focus recomposition is another technique. This one I am not sure it has any particular name, if anything its actually a really good trick.

You would turn off autofocus either on the lens (some lenses have a autofocus manual focus switch) or camera. So you sit on the spot you will take the self portrait, aim at the tripod and focus and then when the focus is set, you turn the switch to manual focus so that the last focus point is locked.

You could also switch the function of the shutter button separating the shutter from the focus. I posted a video on this a few posts up.

Post: #174

(12-15-2018 06:00 PM)la passione Wrote:  

(12-14-2018 08:59 PM)Jozi Wrote:  Also when taking selfies with a remote controller and tripod, any tips on how to best get in focus?

A trick I learned: get positioned where you will be in the shot and then using the camera focus on top of the tripod. Put the camera back on tripod and when you get positioned to take the shot the focus will be set to your face.

Understand (after seeing the video). I didn't know focus was about the distance from the camera, since there are many different spots on the screen you can put your manual focus on. Say I am shooting in 1.4 aperture and focus on someone's face, usually their upper and lower body will be out of focus. So I guess I will have to shoot in a wider aperture? Like 5.6 or something?

Post: #175

(12-16-2018 02:49 AM)la passione Wrote:  Does anyone know if camera prices tend to come down after the Holidays?

I'm thinking of getting the Canon D6 Mark II. When it came out last year it was US$1,999 and now you can get the body on Ebay or Amazon for about $1,299. Wondering if it's worth waiting to see if the price comes down more after the 1st of the year..

$1299 is a really good deal I think. I got the Mark I for $999 just a few months ago, and I thought that was a good deal.