Post: #1

I’m a beginner driver(18), and was wondering what would be the best car for me to purchase. I’m looking for something used, and preferably under 5k.
I’d prefer like an SUV or Truck.
Thanks

Post: #2

Mid-2000's toyota corolla with less than 150k miles

If you prefer a Truck then a used chevy

But if you're frugal have fun paying for gas with trucks and SUVs. I have a 2008 corolla and get 36 mpg highway, payed 5k for it

Post: #3

If you're gonna use it for work, then a truck is good. Otherwise it's approaching double the running cost of a small car.

Post: #4

I'd look for used Toyotas and Hondas. Less repairs and cheaper repair bills. Only get a truck if you really need it.

Post: #5

Gmc sierra with the 5.3 vortec motor

Post: #6

Depends where you live. So where do you live?

Is there anything specific you want to do with the car? Construction, pulling things, Uber driver, etc.?

Aloha!

Post: #7

What were you already going to buy before you posted this thread?

And can you give more details?

You have the cash?

What do you intend to do with the vehicle?

Post: #8

In that price range you might be getting up there in miles.

Plan to spend a few bucks on some tools (it'd be metric for any modernish car)
-set of wrenches and 3/8 sockets
-Couple of screwdrivers and pliers
-Multimeter
-Jack AND STANDS , NEVER GET UNDERNEATH A CAR ON JUST THE JACK!

If something goes wrong, its not too hard to fix usually (sometimes in the parts store parking lot) and there are plenty of tutorials on youtube.

Its all held together by 4 , 6 or 8mm bolts and spot welds mostly.

Post: #9

Shit I buy cars for under $2k all the time, check out local government surplus. They have a lot of miles on them usually (under 175k), however well taken care of mechanically for the ones I pick.

Post: #10

Go for an "Entrepreneurmobile". The article is a few years old now, but still basically applies.

Post: #11

(02-18-2018 12:01 AM)Penta Sahi Wrote:  Go for an "Entrepreneurmobile". The article is a few years old now, but still basically applies.

I really like that. Turns out all my life I've driven 'entreprenuremobiles'. The advice in that article is what I've always told everyone- there's a sweet spot in any vehicle or machine's price range depending upon what you want to do with it.

The worst thing you can do when searching for a vehicle in that price range is go to a dealer- they'll have your pants down if you don't know what you're looking for and how much it should cost.

Never borrow to buy a depreciating asset unless it makes you money. For example, you are a taxi driver doing 50k miles per year. You buy new on a three year low rate finance deal and will move it on for X in three years time. Cost of ownership per year is therefore fixed due to having new car with warranty. Cost of finance is acceptable as you gauge the (manufacturer subsidised) interest rate to be less than the opportunity cost of not having the money in the bank. I do this with plant.

All my vans are 'entreprenuremobiles'. With the money saved on finance payments I can afford to have spare capacity in my small fleet and a vehicle that fits each job perfectly. I haven't spent money on on poncey alloy wheels for the trucks, but I do have sets of mud, all terrain or road tyres on steel wheels that can be swapped in ten minutes and keep the job profitable.

Basically, if it's not mission critical then the sweet spot is where it does the job and won't loose money if you sell it two years down the line. The gamble is how much maintenance it will require in the inbetween. You can mitigate this to some extent with good mechanical knowledge. Also, if you are really at the low end of the scale then be prepared to scrap it and buy again. One of my guys has a shabby 1995 Vauxhaul Corsa I found him for £350 two years ago. It only needed £30 worth of parts to pass the MOT. Anything major goes wrong, he'll just get another for £350. That's cheap motoring.

Post: #12

And another thing. When I had my quarter life crisis I got just as much fun (chicks, thrills and almost spills ) from buying an old MR2 from a mate for £200, checking it had enough oil in it, and then driving it like I stole it until the MOT ran out and I sold it on for £190.

Post: #13

Some good advice above.

Consider the cost to insure. As a young male, this can be very expensive. It increases as you have moving violations. Also, for cars that can go off road, 4x4.

Research the car you want to buy regarding maintenance problems,etc. Lots of cars require a timing belt/chain procedure at around 120,000 miles, and this can run close to $1000.

Trucks are nice because you can make money from them - hauling, etc. - but they hold their value better so they are going to cost twice as much. Also, things like tires and gas will be double.

While not glamorous, a used minivan, such as a Honda Odyssey, can give you many of the benefits of a truck, some even have all wheel drive. They look like a mom car but they drive well and are very roomy comfy, especially for road trips. Some models of minivans the seats come out or fold down to create more cargo capacity.

Post: #14

Opie? O.P. are you there?

Post: #15

I assume you're in the United States.

If you have a long highway commute or do frequent long-distance drives - '05+ Buick LaCrosse.
+3.8l 3800 Series III V6 - best mass-production V6 ever made
+Robust drivetrain. Aforementioned old-tech pushrod V6 and a 4-speed automatic. Do nothing, spend nothing.
+Abundant parts/service availability
+Mature platform = all the bugs worked out
+Decent urban mileage; ridiculous highway mileage (28-31MPG)
+Well-equipped - even a base CX will offer full power equipment, cruise, CD stereo, AUX input, etc.
+Mature demographic - old people bought them, so they be found with low mileage and usually in great mechanical condition.
-Its a Buick. To me, this is a plus, but I'm not normal.
-Only women you'll pick up are 82 year-olds who missed the shuttle back to the senior center.

Other highway cruisers - Lexus ES330, Chevrolet Impala, Toyota Avalon.

If you are looking for a pickup - stick with GM. Older early-00s Silverado or even an S-10. 4.8l and 5.3l V8 are both good.
+Tried-and-true powertrains
+Always worth close to what you'll pay for one
-Poor fuel mileage
-Lacking some modern safety features

Other pickups - 2nd-gen Dodge Ram ('96-'01) w/5.9l V8. Thirsty but dependable. The import truck are decent, but extremely popular and you will overpay for what you get.

For an SUV, I'd go with a '02+ GMT-360 (TrailBlazer, Envoy, Rainier).
+Roomy, spacious, robust
+True SUV - body-on-frame construction
+Great towing capacity ~5000lbs
-Mileage is high-teens at best
-Certain models with certain options are problematic - stay away from Autoride on Envoys and Rainiers (rear air shocks).

Best of luck!

Post: #16

Before you buy anything, make sure you can afford the insurance. Trucks and suvs cost more to insure than a compact sedan or hatchback. I'd second the person who said look at the Carolla or a Honda Fit. Maybe not the most badass cars out there, but you'll be able to afford the insurance.

Post: #17

(02-24-2018 10:49 PM)dicknixon72 Wrote:  Other pickups - 2nd-gen Dodge Ram ('96-'01) w/5.9l V8. Thirsty but dependable. The import truck are decent, but extremely popular and you will overpay for what you get.

That list is solid but I must point something out about Dodge trucks from that vintage. Essentially 99% of all Magnum V6 and V8 engines from those 2nd gen trucks has a factory defect having to do with the intake manifold gasket. They'll all fail eventually, and it's a really expensive (or time-consuming) repair, so I avoid those like the plague. If the problem was specifically addressed by the PO and it's fixed you're good, otherwise don't buy. It's anything with a Magnum V6 or V8, so Dakotas and Dodge full-size vans and any Chrysler product using that engine will be affected.

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/com...ake-gasket

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/produ...rtid=27091

On the other hand there is also a problem with late 99 early 00 Ford Triton V8 and V10 engines where the spark plugs can blow out. That repair is not as bad if you fix it before they blow and mess up the head.

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/pag...epair.html

http://www.fordproblems.com/trends/spark-plug-ejection/

Post: #18

If you want a truck buy a GMC or Chevy with a 4.8 or 5.3 motor. Everything else is worse in every regard possible. You cannot beat the LS motors power, price, reliability, cost of ownership, ease of maintenance, parts availability, fuel economy, ect. It is just BETTER than the alternatives across such a broad spectrum of variables that it wins hands down every time.

The most expensive repair possible on that truck will cost you a thousand dollars out the door, so buy the nicest one you can for 4k and put 1k in the glove box for repairs. Done deal.

There does not need to be anymore discussion on this.

Post: #19

Don't buy a truck unless it will make you money

Post: #20

Pretty sure OP is never returning to this thread but good info here either way.

Thinking practically: if you just need reliable and affordable wheels to get you around a midsize Toyota or Honda sedan/coupe are unbeatable. If you plan to drive a lot in poor road conditions then a Subaru is good too but be aware that they have head gasket issues and their timing belts are finicky. All of these cars have fantastic track records for reliability and low.cpst of ownership, not to.mention that retain value well compared to others.

If you need a truck for utility, then get a GM. Again, most reliable and lowest cost of ownership. No one makes a perfect truck or a perfect V8 and GM's have oil issues as they get older but much better than Ford's or Chryslers. Toyota pickups are also very reliable though some older models suffer frame rot issues.

Post: #21

For around 5K, the cheapest to maintain and most reliable non-car based SUV you can get is going to be a 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the straight 6. Stay away from the 4.7 for the same reasons (and then some) DJ-Matt stated about the Dakota's.

There are still some nice ones out there in the low 100K mile range and they can be driven well beyond 250K with little maintenance unless you drive like a retard. Parts are cheap and plentiful and they are a dream to work on compared to most modern vehicles.

If I was in the market, I would find a nice rust free one that was owned by an older couple, drive it up to 250K, take care of it and sell it for a few grand when you are done.

The only 4x4 pickup you are going to find in that price range would be a late 90's to early 2000's domestic full size. All 3 are good candidates if you can find a nice one owner that didn't have a hard life. Toyota's and Rangers still command a higher price around here and the Dakota's, although great on paper, were made out of 50% rust at the factory I think.

Post: #22

Another dark horse candidate for a cheap beater SUV is - if you can find one - an '02-07 Saturn VUE 4-cyl with a 5-speed manual. Polymer panels (dent-resistant and won't rust), tons of room, 2.2l Ecotec for ridiculous fuel mileage, low-key on maintenance, and plenty of room. Additionally, it is its own theft deterrent and will literally never die.

Post: #23

(02-27-2018 11:44 PM)dicknixon72 Wrote:  Another dark horse candidate for a cheap beater SUV is - if you can find one - an '02-07 Saturn VUE 4-cyl with a 5-speed manual. Polymer panels (dent-resistant and won't rust), tons of room, 2.2l Ecotec for ridiculous fuel mileage, low-key on maintenance, and plenty of room. Additionally, it is its own theft deterrent and will literally never die.

I may have misread OP's requirements when he mentioned an SUV. Don't get me wrong, I am sure Saturn's are fine vehicles, but when I hear the term SUV, I think of something that would accept a class 3 hitch, has affordable after-market lift kits and is at home with A/T or M/T tires. Anything less, I call a station wagon. The term "crossover" gives me the willies too, it's either a station wagon or a minivan. Get over it. We still love you and your station wagons and minivans, not everyone can be a Cherokee or Bronco, it's ok man

Post: #24

One of those steel body nissan trucks also.

Post: #25

(02-24-2018 10:49 PM)dicknixon72 Wrote:  I assume you're in the United States.

If you have a long highway commute or do frequent long-distance drives - '05+ Buick LaCrosse.
+3.8l 3800 Series III V6 - best mass-production V6 ever made
+Robust drivetrain. Aforementioned old-tech pushrod V6 and a 4-speed automatic. Do nothing, spend nothing.
...

True about the 3.8L V6. I believe it's in the Chevy's as well (Impala, Malibu). I think it even used to be in the old Pontiacs? Regardless, a widely used engine that's been refined for years (goes back to the early 90s I think).

For reasonable gas mileage, interior room, and price efficiency, especially today when everybody wants rounded pill-looking crossovers, it's tough to beat a family sized sedan with a solid engine.

Now I sound like my dad.