Post: #1

Anyone have input on buying a used car with a salvage title?

On ebay there's a good deal on a car with a salvage title. It's from a used car dealer (not an individual) with 100% positive feedback on 500+ transactions. Carfax indicates that it was declared a total loss because there was water damage to the interior

Quote:...claimed as a loss due to water. The water level was very low inside the car and the carpets got wet. The carpets were removed cleaned & dried. Needless to say, everything is working perfectly and there is no mechanical damage.

It's halfway across the country but a good value.

I've perused cartalk and ppl recommend when there's a salvage title to request the repair bill and to see for yourself. It doesn't sound like there was a repair bill and I can't check it out for myself because of the distance.

Any advice?

What should I check with before making an offer on a salvage? How to register a salvage title with my DMV? If my insurance will underwrite it?

Also: do sellers generally give a better price if I call them (phone number supplied on auction page) rather than bid through ebay? I'm assuming going direct avoids ebay fees and the sellers can give a better deal...does it work like this?

Post: #2

Paging El Mech

Post: #3

In the event the car is totaled the insurance company is not going to pay blue book value, but a significantly reduced value since it's already been totaled once before.

Post: #4

Salvage title means the the repairs on the car PLUS its value at auction exceeded its book price.

Copart.com is where a lot of those cars windup.

Salvage cars are redone and put on the road all the time, quality ranges from good to WTF.
I wouldn't buy a salvage title car unseen.

Having said that, I would not buy a flooded car. You will have all sorts of corroded electrical connections that will be a nightmare to diagnose. Stick to good old beat up cars, sheetmetal is a lot more forgiving.

Post: #5

I've done it before. You can get it insured no problem.

Find out why it was totaled. Could have been major damage that isn't really repairable.

Or it could have just gotten really smashed up such that repairing it would have been to expensive relative to the car's value.

Take it to a dealership for a check-up before buying.

I also know people who fix cars that were totaled and sell them and the cars are good to go.

Like buying any car, always be careful and take the mindset that the guy isn't fully disclosing everything.

Post: #6

i wouldn't buy. it is unknown how well the frame was welded back together. usually the welds are stronger than the original frame, so if there is a collision any kink in the frame from welding, be that no 100% factory spec aligned to all angles and whatnot can put stress into improper area of the car and you end up with the engine going through the firewall

Post: #7

I'm currently driving a salvaged title, but the guy who sold it to me is a friend of a friend of my dad's. He specializes in this stuff; HIS friend owns a body shop and he buys cars that are basically aesthetically fucked but zero mechanical damage and gets a great deal on a body rebuild. I bought my car about 3k off book value and it runs like a champ 9 months in. Only issue is the catalytic heat shield rattles but this is a common issue with Nissans, most likely unrelated to the car accident, and is completely harmless (just noisy).

I checked out the car a few times and test drove before I bought it. I wouldn't buy otherwise. I'm not sure I'd buy a salvaged title from a complete stranger.

Post: #8

I don't buy cars with dirty titles because they're a problem to sell.

But,
1. How much are you saving?
2. Fresh or salt water damage? Salt is a no go. Will rust and have electrical issues endlessly.
3. Fresh water totals are mostly "hydro-lock" where the engine gets fucked up because water gets in and bends the rods while running. Think big puddles until it won't run anymore.
4. You need to have it looked at by someone who really knows. This person will tell you what happened no matter how good of a job they did.
5.Don't expect resale, trade in to go smooth.
6. If it's European? No. Too many expensive control modules that could fuck up in the near future.
7.Mold? look for it.
8. Stay calm
9. Keep it 3Hunna

Post: #9

I once bought a totalled car that had zero mechanical damage intending to repair it and resell it. ( The car had rolled over so it looked like Godzilla chewed it, but the motor ran and everything else worked perfectly, but the radiator)

After a couple of months working on it, it became clear that I was going to need to invest more in time and parts than the ammount I intended to get out of it, so I sold it and the remaining replacement parts as it was to a guy that did that for a living, losing money in the process.

It might be a good idea if it was a classic car you are rebuilding for your own use and enjoyment, otherwise i recommend you really really think it out.

Post: #10

Have a mechanic check the Head Gaskets..

Do a compression test..

Post: #11

My father bought 3 salvaged cars on an auction, repaired whatever he could by himself, and had his mechanic fix up severe body issues.

All 3 run just fine to this day, and it's been around 4-5 years. I know this because all my family members drive those cars. They're worth far more than what he put in, so it was worth it.

However, one car had to get fixed up a bit due to some issues, but it's fine now.

Get someone you can trust, as it's very easy to hide a problem that can cost you thousands.

Post: #12

(09-18-2013 11:14 PM)el mechanico Wrote:  I don't buy cars with dirty titles because they're a problem to sell.

But,
1. How much are you saving?
2. Fresh or salt water damage? Salt is a no go. Will rust and have electrical issues endlessly.
3. Fresh water totals are mostly "hydro-lock" where the engine gets fucked up because water gets in and bends the rods while running. Think big puddles until it won't run anymore.
4. You need to have it looked at by someone who really knows. This person will tell you what happened no matter how good of a job they did.
5.Don't expect resale, trade in to go smooth.
6. If it's European? No. Too many expensive control modules that could fuck up in the near future.
7.Mold? look for it.
8. Stay calm
9. Keep it 3Hunna

I concur.

If you are going to buy something to drive the wheels off of, a salvage car CAN be ok. Resale will be shit and some insurers won't touch them.

Flood cars I'd be very careful however. Body and mechanical damage can often be fixed easily. Water damage not so much.

And the electronics on modern cars are insane. THey are essentially computers on wheels.

Would you buy a flood damaged computer?

Post: #13

Fresh water puddle hydro-lock flood cars are the only ones to buy not submerged flood cars. Take a look at the carfax to see where it's from and what kind of storms were there around that date.

I looked at a Subaru for an ex-hot customer today with a rebuilt title. It was ok. They wanted about 3k less than the other ones and it has less miles, she was ok with the trade off.

She said..."I'm surprised you remembered my name" I said well, how could I forget so what happened? lololol Wall victim troll + 75 dollars for my time.