Post: #301

(02-26-2017 12:15 PM)ed pluribus unum Wrote:  I got an engine rebuild a few years back but the bike is burning a bit of oil and the oil is always dark. Last time I had it in the shop the mechanic told me compression was down on a couple of the cylinders but it was still pulling well thru'out the range. His diagnosis was that during the rebuild they had screwed up and allowed the gap in the piston rings to become lined up, allowing oil to blow past into the cylinder.

I'd like to tackle this myself, so my question is: can I take off the cylinder heads (valve train, cams and all) to expose the pistons, allowing me to re-align the rings, without having to re-set all the valves and redo the timing? Sounds lazy I know, but I'll be operating at the limit of my know-how in this endeavour, so any shortcuts I can legitimately take will be a bonus.

It's a water-cooled in-line 4, UJM.

Hi , I have rebuilt a couple of bike engines before and I'm in the process of my third (also low on compression, though traced it to a bent valve an slightly scratched cylinders).

As I do not know what bike you got I don't know if you need to lift the engine from the frame to preform this type of operation or not. So if you can keep it in I'm guessing it will take 10 to 20 hours and you will need new head and cylinder gaskets.

But "misaligned rings" is the best possible situation. I could very well be something else like a bad valve or that they screwed up something worse. So if I would have done it I would try to prepare myself mentally for the worst thing, which is honing cylinders new gaskets, rings, pistons and regrinding the valves and more than 10-20 hours.

Though this is not beyond anyones know-how with a workshop manual and somewhat right tools, It is just time consuming. So if you think it sounds like you would enjoy rebuilding the engine, go for it, if not I wouldn't bother putting in the hours to do it and just ride bike and carry some extra oil. And if she blows up, she blows up.

Post: #302

(02-28-2017 10:32 AM)Jay Gatz Wrote:  

(02-26-2017 12:15 PM)ed pluribus unum Wrote:  I got an engine rebuild a few years back but the bike is burning a bit of oil and the oil is always dark. Last time I had it in the shop the mechanic told me compression was down on a couple of the cylinders but it was still pulling well thru'out the range. His diagnosis was that during the rebuild they had screwed up and allowed the gap in the piston rings to become lined up, allowing oil to blow past into the cylinder.

I'd like to tackle this myself, so my question is: can I take off the cylinder heads (valve train, cams and all) to expose the pistons, allowing me to re-align the rings, without having to re-set all the valves and redo the timing? Sounds lazy I know, but I'll be operating at the limit of my know-how in this endeavour, so any shortcuts I can legitimately take will be a bonus.

It's a water-cooled in-line 4, UJM.

Hi , I have rebuilt a couple of bike engines before and I'm in the process of my third (also low on compression, though traced it to a bent valve an slightly scratched cylinders).

As I do not know what bike you got I don't know if you need to lift the engine from the frame to preform this type of operation or not. So if you can keep it in I'm guessing it will take 10 to 20 hours and you will need new head and cylinder gaskets.

But "misaligned rings" is the best possible situation. I could very well be something else like a bad valve or that they screwed up something worse. So if I would have done it I would try to prepare myself mentally for the worst thing, which is honing cylinders new gaskets, rings, pistons and regrinding the valves and more than 10-20 hours.

Though this is not beyond anyones know-how with a workshop manual and somewhat right tools, It is just time consuming. So if you think it sounds like you would enjoy rebuilding the engine, go for it, if not I wouldn't bother putting in the hours to do it and just ride bike and carry some extra oil. And if she blows up, she blows up.

Did he say how low the compression was? I've used additives like Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the past. With measurable (compression tester) effect, before someone says it's snake oil.

As a side note, I remember running a knackered old Pug diesel on chip fat. The extra top side lube made a big difference to the torque.

Post: #303

(02-28-2017 02:08 PM)roberto Wrote:  

(02-28-2017 10:32 AM)Jay Gatz Wrote:  

(02-26-2017 12:15 PM)ed pluribus unum Wrote:  I got an engine rebuild a few years back but the bike is burning a bit of oil and the oil is always dark. Last time I had it in the shop the mechanic told me compression was down on a couple of the cylinders but it was still pulling well thru'out the range. His diagnosis was that during the rebuild they had screwed up and allowed the gap in the piston rings to become lined up, allowing oil to blow past into the cylinder.

I'd like to tackle this myself, so my question is: can I take off the cylinder heads (valve train, cams and all) to expose the pistons, allowing me to re-align the rings, without having to re-set all the valves and redo the timing? Sounds lazy I know, but I'll be operating at the limit of my know-how in this endeavour, so any shortcuts I can legitimately take will be a bonus.

It's a water-cooled in-line 4, UJM.

Hi , I have rebuilt a couple of bike engines before and I'm in the process of my third (also low on compression, though traced it to a bent valve an slightly scratched cylinders).

As I do not know what bike you got I don't know if you need to lift the engine from the frame to preform this type of operation or not. So if you can keep it in I'm guessing it will take 10 to 20 hours and you will need new head and cylinder gaskets.

But "misaligned rings" is the best possible situation. I could very well be something else like a bad valve or that they screwed up something worse. So if I would have done it I would try to prepare myself mentally for the worst thing, which is honing cylinders new gaskets, rings, pistons and regrinding the valves and more than 10-20 hours.

Though this is not beyond anyones know-how with a workshop manual and somewhat right tools, It is just time consuming. So if you think it sounds like you would enjoy rebuilding the engine, go for it, if not I wouldn't bother putting in the hours to do it and just ride bike and carry some extra oil. And if she blows up, she blows up.

Did he say how low the compression was? I've used additives like Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the past. With measurable (compression tester) effect, before someone says it's snake oil.

As a side note, I remember running a knackered old Pug diesel on chip fat. The extra top side lube made a big difference to the torque.

Interesting, never thought of using additives. That might be an option if he decides not to rebuild it. Though I would be a a bit weary of using it on anything too high performance.

Post: #304

(02-28-2017 01:28 AM)Hoser Wrote:  Denim offers the falsest sense of security. I once thought it helped. Turns out its shred resistance is shockingly low.

...

A mate of mine learned the hard way that even kevlar jeans are only as good as the belt that holds them on.

He low-sided and went into a high speed, slow rotation slide. All good and well while he was facing into the slide, but as he came around his pants tried to stay behind and ended up around his ankles. The culprit was a recent weight loss routine and a shitty ten dollar fake leather belt.

Post: #305

Wow, good point! Never thought about belt integrity.

It would be very informative to see a compendium of photos and stories of preventable motorcycle injuries. Just knowing how things can happen is often helpful.

For example, I didn't understand back protectors until I heard about a guy who was sliding on his back, hit a curb, and wound up in a wheelchair. I bought one soon after.

Post: #306

In other safety-related news: one of my best safety practices has been to watch hours and hours of YouTube crash compilations, both motorcycles and cars. It has taught me SO much about how things can go wrong on the road, and how quickly. Makes me a much more conscientious rider. Highly recommended.

Post: #307

^ I haven't been happy with riding jeans.

I have a textile commuter pant and a track leather pants. Both have a circumferential zip attachment for either textile or leather jacket.

They also have a smaller zip to also connect just the backs of the parts together.

But the jeans all have a weak ass loop connection. I don't trust that in a highway slide.

Statistically, given the injury potential of the foot, I put more money on solid boots with ankle support and torsional stability. And solid gauntlet gloves to reduce chance of arm breakage near the wrist or mangling fingers.

I think feet and lower legs were one of the most common motorcycle injuries due to the hard steel pegs and weight of the motorcycle.

Post: #308

(03-02-2017 01:02 PM)philosophical_recovery Wrote:  ^ I haven't been happy with riding jeans.

I have a textile commuter pant and a track leather pants. Both have a circumferential zip attachment for either textile or leather jacket.

They also have a smaller zip to also connect just the backs of the parts together.

But the jeans all have a weak ass loop connection. I don't trust that in a highway slide.

Statistically, given the injury potential of the foot, I put more money on solid boots with ankle support and torsional stability. And solid gauntlet gloves to reduce chance of arm breakage near the wrist or mangling fingers.

I think feet and lower legs were one of the most common motorcycle injuries due to the hard steel pegs and weight of the motorcycle.

What kind of boots are you guys rocking, keep in mind this would be for a Harley not some Alpine Star Tech 10's lol.

Some thing has good stability, but doesn't look gay as fuck.

I'm more of a rocker/punker style.

Post: #309

^^
Steel toed boots make things a little awkward changing gears but you can get use to it. Only rode sports bikes so maybe things are just smaller on them. Im sure they have saved some feet though, but steel toes are mostly for things getting dropped on your foot. Ive had a nasty accident with my foot completely bruised blue on the side. I was wearing boots and I think what saved me was the rubber being kinda thick and sticking out from the front profile. That way the rubber hits the ground first and transfers the most force, If you are in a serious accident the forces flipping your body are beyond your control so its good insurance. Look into frye or Chippewa they might have the look you are looking for.

Post: #310

I just found some pretty cool ones being reviewed by revzilla.

Post: #311

I'm honestly not much of a motorcycle guy, but I've recently been romanticizing about the idea of getting a super old-school 1940's Indian.

Did some poking around online and discovered that those sort of bikes are extremely difficult to find, and if you can find them they are extremely expensive. Sigh.

Post: #312

I was considering picking up an '83 Suzuki GS450 for under $500 for a cafe racer project. Turns out the dude already sold it though!



Maybe next time. I'd like a Honda CB-series more anyway. It will be a project(especially with the weather in New England lately) anyway so I've got time to search for a good deal.

Post: #313

^^^^ saw a 49-50' panhead for 8 grand, Craigslist, had the money, fucking thing sold in an hour

Post: #314

If you want a newer bike with a cafe look. Solid bike from what I hear.

Post: #315

^^^^That the XSR900 ? If so a buddy of mine had that, super fun and light.

Post: #316

I hear good things about the Yamaha FZ-07 as well. More of a naked bike then a cafe but I'd take it:



You could cafe it with a set of handle bars and a custom seat anyway.

Post: #317

(03-02-2017 01:02 PM)philosophical_recovery Wrote:  ^ I haven't been happy with riding jeans.

... the jeans all have a weak ass loop connection. I don't trust that in a highway slide.

...

Trust is important since you have to have faith in your gear to remove that nagging doubt from your mind and focus on the road, but those motorcycle specific jeans would not be able to build brand names if the internet was full of road rash pics accompanied by shots of broken belt loops.

I had a pair back in the day and...



...I could hang my entire body weight off a single loop.

In fairness to the jeans, on blazing hot South Australian days they were safer than leather purely on concerns of heat-stroke.

Post: #318

It is an XSR900, bottom one is a limited abarth edition one but you could prob mod a regular one for that look. Its got the same engine as the fz-09. Only complaint I hear is that they didnt import the XSR700. Some say the engine is just too big for what the bike is, so maybe the fz-07 is a better choice after all.

As for jeans, how much protection would a really heavy weight non riding denim offer?

Post: #319

^Very little. Useful for low speed farm work at best.

Post: #320

Better get good at not spilling then

They have kevlar/denim laced pants with built in armor, shit looks pretty cool, but it's still denimish.

Ass less chaps are where it's at, right boys ?

Post: #321

Oilbreh, not even kidding you in the least: Denim is REALLY bad at resisting abrasion. Corduroy would likely be better, no joke. All natural cloths are just wisps of cotton, wool, flax, etc, woven together. The wisps unweave instantly upon contact with asphalt.

Only leather or purpose-made synthetics are reliably abrasion-resistant. Even then, the leather must be heavy duty and/or made for motorcycle duty. A casual leather jacket or jeans is likely too weak, and its seams won't be made to handle the forces of the highway hamburger grinder.

Post: #322

If a man wanted i cheap beginner non-sporty bike that's easy to work on, what bike would you all point him to?

Post: #323

A carburetted single or twin from a year that starts with 19.

Post: #324

I cheated death today.

Was going around a corner at 80mph on my F800GS and I just couldn't keep the turn tight enough. I got on the brakes but the rear wheel started dancing a little so I could barely reduce my speed.

Drifted into the oncoming lane (two lane highway), then rounded the corner to see a Honda sedan headed right for my front wheel.

Luckily the guy driving the other car had a brain and swerved inwards, making enough room for me to go wide around him on the shoulder.

A question to the more experienced: how the fuck do you keep your line tight when you're rounding a corner fast? I feel like I always understeer.

Post: #325

(03-06-2017 09:25 PM)polymath Wrote:  I cheated death today.

Was going around a corner at 80mph on my F800GS and I just couldn't keep the turn tight enough. I got on the brakes but the rear wheel started dancing a little so I could barely reduce my speed.

Drifted into the oncoming lane (two lane highway), then rounded the corner to see a Honda sedan headed right for my front wheel.

Luckily the guy driving the other car had a brain and swerved inwards, making enough room for me to go wide around him on the shoulder.

A question to the more experienced: how the fuck do you keep your line tight when you're rounding a corner fast? I feel like I always understeer.

Thats nuts. Maybe go to the track to get a better feel for your bike. Braking will force your bike upright and straight. You shouldnt be riding at a speed where you need to brake while turning. While turning you should be really pushing your weight out on the inside handle bar. It can be counter intuitive takes a while to really get use to it. Stay safe.