Post: #1

- Shirt: loose or tighter?

- Cufflinks: silver or golden or what, circular or square?

- Pocket square: matching tie or shirt in color?

- Trousers: how long, loose or tighter?

- Shirt, tie, pocket square, suit, trousers color, fabric suggestions?

- Socks? Match the trousers in color, right?

- Collar: round or angular?

- I've been wearing black and white shirts so far because I sweat quite a bit and I always sweat my armpits and with colored shirts it looks awful. I wanna wear colored shirt because they look cool. Any suggestions on how to avoid this sweating thing? Should I wear a tight T-shirt under my shirt?

- Tie clips: Yes or No, silver?

- Tie: Which knot?

- Vests: Match the suit in color and material or irrelevant?

- How can one find a cheap tailor who customizes my shirts and suits? How much does it usually cost and how much time does it take?

Post: #2

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Shirt: loose or tighter?

Tight.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Cufflinks: silver or golden or what, circular or square?

I've always gone with square and silver (if I wear them). I guess it depends on the outfit, though.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Pocket square: matching tie or shirt in color?

Your pocket square should never match your tie or shirt exactly. Instead choose a color that compliments the tie.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Trousers: how long, loose or tighter?

Dress pants tend to be on the loose side. They shouldn't look tight, like your shirts. Length: normal pants length, I suppose.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Shirt, tie, pocket square, suit, trousers color, fabric suggestions?

Colors are going to depend on your palette. What's your eye color, hair color and skintone?

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Socks? Match the trousers in color, right?

Yep. Though, I once heard someone say: "A businessman matches his socks to his trousers, a gentleman matches his socks to his mood".

But yeah, match the trousers, lol.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Collar: round or angular?

Personal preference, usually.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - I've been wearing black and white shirts so far because I sweat quite a bit and I always sweat my armpits and with colored shirts it looks awful. I wanna wear colored shirt because they look cool. Any suggestions on how to avoid this sweating thing? Should I wear a tight T-shirt under my shirt?

This is what undershirts are for. I never wear undershirts and I sweat tons. Everyone sweats, don't make such a big deal out of it.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Tie clips: Yes or No, silver?

No.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Tie: Which knot?

Skinny ties: pratt.
Thick ties: full windsor

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - Vests: Match the suit in color and material or irrelevant?

Kind of irrelevant. I usually choose a vest which compliments my shirt nicely.

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  - How can one find a cheap tailor who customizes my shirts and suits? How much does it usually cost and how much time does it take?

If you live in a major city, you can definitely find a quality tailor. If not, it would probably be worth it to travel somewhere and buy them. Quality tailored clothes are worth it.

I get custom tailored shirts for $99 USD usually.
Suits can go anywhere from $600 - thousands. Depends on the quality you want and who you go to.

Post: #3

What colors compliment what colors?

Is it ok to wear different colored/fabric ( dark grey, shiny ) trousers with a different suit ( light grey, matte )?

Tight shirt for business too or in that case a looser one is ok?

Diamond socks?

Why no tie clips?

Post: #4

(01-30-2012 09:46 PM)mofo Wrote:  My hair color: very dark brown
My eye color: dark green
Skin tone: light brown

What colors do you recommend?

Going off the text description, I would say your best blazer color is probably a gray.

As for other items:

Again, I would need to see a photo, but I think you'll look best in brighter colors (purples, pinks, etc.)

Start out by getting the essential, custom white & black dress shirts. Everyone needs to have those.

Quote:What colors compliment what colors?

I could talk about this for hours. What it boils down to is: there are tons of color combinations that work well. It's hard to describe them all. Go out and try things on, take photos, see what works.

A good thing to do is look in men's magazines like GQ and pay attention to which color combinations the models use.

You might want to find actors or models who are built like you with similar skin/eyes/hair and model their outfits.

Quote:Is it ok to wear different colored/fabric ( dark grey, shiny ) trousers with a different suit ( light grey, matte )?

Be sure to match the fabrics of your blazer and your trousers.
Color is less important than fabric. You can match the colors for a nice, clean look of uniformity or just match the tones of your colors (soft to soft, etc.)

Quote:Tight shirt for business too or in that case a looser one is ok?

Tight shirts always.

Quote:Diamond socks?

You mean Argyle pattern?
I'll wear pattern socks sometimes, but I usually just roll with a solid color.

Quote:Why no tie clips?

It'll make you look too much like a businessman.
If you're at work, sure a tie clip can be appropriate, but take it off when you leave the office.

That might just be personal preference though... we'll see what others say.

Post: #5

"I get custom tailored shirts for $99 USD usually."

WHERE?

Post: #6

(01-30-2012 08:04 PM)mofo Wrote:  I'm going for the G look.



- Shirt: loose or tighter?

Tight and slim fit.

Quote:- Cufflinks: silver or golden or what, circular or square?

You only plan on buying only one pair of cufflinks? If so, silver and square.

Quote:- Pocket square: matching tie or shirt in color?

Tie. A lot of vendors sell a matching tie and pocket square combo.

Quote:- Trousers: how long, loose or tighter?

Below the ankle bone, but shouldn't touch the ground when you stand. Best way to explain is NOT tight, you don't want ripples appearing from when fabric is getting stretched or pushed out of its design, but proper fitting pants (well suits really) demonstrate good male form and hide poor male form.

Get your legs and gluts buff, show them off in good fitting pants.

Quote:- Shirt, tie, pocket square, suit, trousers color, fabric suggestions?

Wool in all but extreme heat conditions. Perhaps some elastin in the pants, or silk saddle, if you have muscular legs.

Quote:- Socks? Match the trousers in color, right?

Yup

Quote:- Collar: round or angular?

Personal preference, this is however determines ti eknots, see below.

Quote:- I've been wearing black and white shirts so far because I sweat quite a bit and I always sweat my armpits and with colored shirts it looks awful. I wanna wear colored shirt because they look cool. Any suggestions on how to avoid this sweating thing? Should I wear a tight T-shirt under my shirt?

Navy blue, navy blue w/stripes.

White with blue or white with pink stripes.

Try talcum powder and/or baking soda for sweat.

Quote:- Tie clips: Yes or No, silver?

I wouldn't, but it should match your cufflink if you wear metal cuflinks.

Quote:- Tie: Which knot?

Depends on your collar, and this dictates the type of tie you buy and the knot you use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EC4hFjdtCto

this vid explains it.

Quote:- Vests: Match the suit in color and material or irrelevant?

You should try and match the suit.

Quote:- How can one find a cheap tailor who customizes my shirts and suits? How much does it usually cost and how much time does it take?

Thanks.

Customisation should be be locality specific.

Post: #7

Great advice by 'November' and 'T and A Man'. I've been wearing a suit everyday for years now and I'll add:
1) Get rid of the cuff links. They never really go out of style, but if you're wearing a modern suit (i.e. slim fitting) with a slim cut shirt, then french cuffs and thus cuff links, will not look good.
2) Wear a flat front pant and straight leg (not cuffed) with a single pleat.
3) Aim for a jacket with double vents, but this isn't a deal breaker.
4) Socks do match the slacks, but don't go for exact. If dark gray slacks, wear a pair of soft gray socks. Make sure your socks are thin. If black socks on black slacks, then make sure the socks have a soft pattern.
5) I always go with a big fat double windsor knot (think: ari gold from early entourage) but that style is fading. Skinny ties with small knots are in. I fucking hate that style. Personal preference.
6) Two buttons on the jacket
7) The key to wearing a suit like the guys in the picture above is to wear a modern fit. Stay away from baggy suits. You don't have to buy custom if you can't afford it, but I highly recommend finding a good fashion consultant at Nordstrom to help you select something that fits well. Don't let the old guys or fat women dress you. You don't want conservative, you want sharp. Find someone who looks good and knows his shit (you can tell by looking at him) and ask for help. I've been using the same female at Nordstrom for about seven years now and she knows her shit. She's hot, trendy, and isn't willing to make the sale to me if the suit makes me look fat, old or gay (she's literally refused to sell me suits I thought I liked -- a good consultant will do that for you). Nordstrom has annual men's sales every December and June and you can get a good quality, nice-fitting suit for $500. Ted Baker, Joseph Abboud, Boss etc.

Post: #8

(01-30-2012 11:47 PM)xmlenigma Wrote:  "I get custom tailored shirts for $99 USD usually."

WHERE?

There are tons of custom dress shirt makers online. But most of these shirts aren't bespoke, they are made to measure. (MTM or M2M)

They basically have a stock dress shirt pattern that they modify to fit your measurements. You can pick a fit, collars, cuffs, pockets, fabrics, stitching - but it's not a shirt made with your particular body's geometry in mind.

It's usually good enough though.

Once you know what a shirt should fit like, you go here.

$50 USD @ Jantzen tailors - http://www.jantzentailor.com/ - this is not for the faint of heart. Over 5,000 fabrics to pick from, lots of different shirt styles, plus you're sending a dude in HK your cc# and expecting a shirt back. Google for Jantzen and you'll find their pretty reputable, but this is for the hardcore dandy on a budget.